Art Nouveau jewellery: shock of the new

Clients frequently request bespoke jewellery in a particular historical style. One popular style is Art Nouveau – an influential movement which originated in Paris around the turn of the 20th Century and which enjoyed great popularity in Europe and further afield for a brief but highly significant period of around 15 years.

As a reaction against the more formalised and elitist ‘Academic’ art of the 19th century, Art Nouveau (‘New Art’) encompassed all areas of life, from whole buildings and their interior design down to furniture, utensils and jewellery, as well as paintings, sculptures and other media. Its aim was to make art an everyday part of life and, in line with its egalitarian philosophy, it emphasised design and craftsmanship over the intrinsic value of any materials used.

Materials in Art Nouveau jewellery

For the preceding two centuries, jewellery design had been dominated by precious stones (including diamonds) and their metal settings. The goldsmith was paramount in this era. Art Nouveau designers – perhaps most famously, René Lalique – instead made a feature of the artwork, not only their medium. Semi-precious stones such as amethyst, opal, moonstone, peridot, freshwater (that is, cheap, mass-cultivated) pearls and citrine were popular.

A renewed appreciation for artistry led to new techniques being practised and developed. Enamel was a key material for which a number of processes were refined, including cloisonne and champleve (using gold wire and recessed areas respectively to delineate the boundaries of the enamel). In basse-taille an engraved pattern was covered in transparent enamel, and the plique-a-jour technique was used to create a stained-glass appearance by removing the metal backing after firing.

Non-precious metals and other materials which had previously been little-used in jewellery-making gained prominence, such as copper, ivory, glass, horn, bone and shell.

Art Nouveau jewellery Motifs

A number of themes gained significance in the Art Nouveau movement. An interest in nature – common in the Victorian era – provided one important source of inspiration, with flowers (especially poppies, water lilies and orchids), snakes, dragonflies and butterflies often featured. Under the influence of Asian art, these became stylised and simplified for reproduction in different media. Free-flowing, organic lines and the ‘whiplash’ curve were often used. Both of these tendencies were incorporated into the movement’s spiritual symbolism, with mythical creatures and hybrid animals reflecting fin-de-siècle hope and fantasy. The female form – often with long, flowing hair and combined with nature themes – became increasingly popular as a symbol of decadence and sensuality.