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Edwardian Jewellery: a new era of style

A style that clients often request when ordering bespoke jewellery is Edwardian. The Edwardian era began in 1901 when Queen Victoria’s first son, Prince Albert Edward, acceded the throne on her death. The turn of the century was a time of optimistic fashion and sophistication – the ‘Belle Epoque’ that saw the development of new technologies such as the car, plane and cinema, and economic prosperity. Edward died in 1910, but the Edwardian period is generally assumed to end with the beginning of the First World War in 1914.

The lighter side

Platinum became a popular metal in this period, as its strength allowed very fine settings to be created for stones, giving a light and even ‘invisible’ appearance. White gold was sometimes used as a cheaper alternative, and more so after the beginning of the war when platinum grew scarcer due to its strategic qualities. Edwardian diamond engagement rings are still very popular today and typically feature filigree detail and antique stones in Old Mine or Old European cuts – early forms of brilliant cut.

Platinum’s white sheen highlighted diamonds to excellent effect, and pearls were used for the same reason. But coloured stones also experienced a resurgence in popularity. Alexandra, Edward’s wife, favoured amethyst. During the suffragette movement these were sometimes combined with pearls and peridots, the green, white and violet stones standing for ‘Give Women the Vote’.

Inspired by India

Edward embarked on an eight-month tour of India in 1875, and the influence that this had on the prince and his wife is evident in some of the styles they favoured afterwards. Feathers worn in the hair and decorated with precious stones (diamond aigrettes), chokers and sautoirs – long chains of stones ending in a tassel – are three examples.

Brooches and pins were popular, often with filigree designs, stars and crescents. Necklaces with pendants of various kinds were used to accent the face and neck; the fashion of the time was to wear high collars in the day and low necklines in the evening. Decorations more common in the 18th century were revived, such as tassels, wreaths, bows and swags.