Late Georgian jewellery: a revolution in style

Another popular style often requested for pieces of bespoke jewellery is Late Georgian, which encompasses the reigns of the British kings George III and IV (1760-1820 and 1820-1830), as well as William IV (1830-1837). This period was a time of social and political change, and these monarchs’ combined rule was set against the backdrop of the American Revolution, French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars.

Late Georgian style

Late Georgian jewellery is relatively rare and highly sought-after by collectors. Although there was no one uniform style, and pieces differed to an extent depending on region, the so-called Neoclassical Revival of Napoleon’s reign was a significant influence.

Previously heavy and complex, jewellery became lighter and finer, incorporating a range of new features, such as floral motifs, feathers and scrolls. One of the reasons that Late Georgian jewellery is so rare is that people increasingly began to set their jewels in more modern pieces as time went on. However, the skill of the jeweller was almost unparalleled at this time, so existing pieces tend to be of very high quality.

A golden age of rare jewellery

Due to the Napoleonic wars, diamonds were scarce and highly prized. Stones were usually rose-cut, and settings were carefully-made to emphasise their size. The curiosity of Berlin Iron was another result of the war; German citizens were requested to give their gold to the war effort and would receive black, cast-iron copies of their pieces in return – a style that persisted for several decades into peacetime. Necklaces tended to accent the low necklines in vogue at the time. Rows of graduated gemstones (‘rivieres’) were popular, as were cameos and mosaics set in plaques and with rows of chain draped between them (‘en esclavage’).

Memento mori (‘remembrance of death’) jewellery experienced a revival. Lockets and other pieces containing a lock of hair or incorporating an inscribed name were popular, as well as other mourning pieces depicting funeral scenes and other reminders of the departed and wearer’s own mortality. Miniatures – in brooches, bracelets and pendants – also formed reminders of the living or dead for a time before photography.