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The Many Shapes of Diamonds

Diamonds can be cut into many different shapes, determined by various factors including the natural properties of the rough stone, the personal taste of the consumer and the popular designs of the time. Although the Round Brilliant is one of the most common shapes of diamond used for bespoke jewellery due to its exceptional sparkle, it is by no means the only choice. Below we set out some of the most well known 'fancy cuts' available but developments in cutting technology mean that new shapes are continually being created.

The emerald-cut stone is a clean, rectangular- or occasionally square-cut diamond with a few simple step cuts (parallel to the girdle or circumference). As the name suggests, the cut is popular for emeralds. The corners of the stone are always ‘blocked' or truncated. Emerald-cut stones are generally of relatively high clarity because the simplicity of the style means that inclusions may otherwise be visible.

Baguettes tend to be relatively small, rectangular stones, usually with just a few step cuts and truncated corners like an emerald, and are frequently used to accent larger diamonds in bespoke engagement rings.

The Asscher was created by the Dutch Asscher brothers in 1902 and is a variation of the emerald cut. It is almost octagonal in shape thanks to its truncated corners. Its special feature is its pavilion, the bottom half of the stone, on which every side is step-cut down to the ‘culet' or point. The Asscher is often found in solitaire rings, or simply accented with other square-cut stones.

The Princess cut was developed in the 1970s and is another popular style. Once again, it is often based on a square shape. The cut has right-angled rather than blocked corners, and otherwise combines the triangle-shaped facets of the Brilliant with the step-cuts of the traditional emerald. They are often found in solitaire rings, though are also used with side stones for accent.

Radiants are similar, though with blocked corners and usually more rectangular.

The Cushion is a fairly unusual variant which, as the name suggests, has a soft-cornered pillow shape that combines square and circle.

Oval cuts combine the Round Brilliant's sparkle with a different geometry - typically around 1.5 times long as they are wide, though this is down to personal taste. To keep them in place, six-pointed mountings are often employed.

Marquise-cut stones are typically twice as long as they are wide, with tapered ends. The shape tends to make the finger look more elongated. They are also known as ‘navettes', French for ‘little boat', after the shape.

The Pear is unusual in that it is an asymmetric cut, round at one end and pointed at the other. It is particularly appropriate for earrings or as a pendant, though is also used as a centrepiece for a ring. Good symmetry is important so that the light is reflected and refracted properly through the stone.

Finally, Trillions are striking triangular-cut stones which again use both step-cutting and the faceting of the brilliant cut. They are frequently used for accent, but rarely as a central stone.