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Victorian jewellery: leading by example

Clients looking for bespoke jewellery often ask for pieces in a particular historical style, and one of the most popular themes is Victorian jewellery.

Queen Victoria was crowned in 1837 and reigned until she died in 1901 – the longest reign of any British monarch. The six decades of her rule were a time of relative peace and prosperity, brought about in part by the technological, social and economic developments of the Industrial Revolution.

The changes that took place in the mid-late 19th century prompted a new middle class to emerge, bringing with it an increased demand for jewellery and other luxury goods. New technology meant that these items could now be mass-produced to satisfy a new generation of consumers.

Early fashion queen

As the first female monarch since Queen Anne, who died in 1714, Victoria was a natural source of fashion inspiration to women. In the first decades of her reign, bigger was better: voluminous skirts, expansive lace collars and long sleeves were all the rage. In the closing years of her reign and of the century, fashion became more pragmatic in nature as women joined the workforce in increasing numbers and engaged in new leisure pursuits. Jewellery, too, tended at first towards the large and more ornate, before becoming smaller and finer as time went on.

Sparking demand

Diamonds became more available and affordable after large deposits were found in the 1860s, and their popularity grew with the advent of electric lighting in the 1880s as this showed off their sparkle to best effect. For the less affluent, semi-precious stones could be substituted. Opals were one of Victoria’s personal favourites, but coral, turquoise, pearls, garnet and amethyst were also used. Stones were displayed in increasingly intricate and varied gold settings, as the metal was mined more widely and new techniques and appearances were developed. Originally, only 18 carat gold was hallmarked. In 1854, 9, 12 and 15 ct gold was allowed to receive a quality stamp too, paving the way for cheaper jewellery.

Nature themes were popular, particularly flowers. The snake was a frequent motif, due to Victoria’s use of it, and its associations with wisdom, luck and eternity. Keepsake jewellery – often incorporating a lock of hair from a loved one – was also common. After the queen’s husband, Prince Albert, died in 1861, mourning pieces suddenly became highly fashionable and much sought-after. These typically used black materials such as coloured enamel, jet and onyx.