Aim High with Hearts and Arrows

Hearts and Arrows is a particular kind of Round Brilliant cut, indicating excellent optical symmetry and an extremely regular, well-executed cut. A Hearts and Arrows cut diamond is typically more expensive, because it reflects a greater degree of time and expertise.

They also entail a slightly higher degree of loss of weight from the rough diamond. The term is often seen in marketing materials, as it suggests a top-tier cut. However, it does not mean the stone will necessarily be more brilliant or more desirable than all others.

Finding the right angles

A conflict free diamond with a Hearts and Arrows cut has certain features when viewed from directly above and below (a gemstone viewer is usually necessary). Looking down at the crown, a pattern of eight grey arrows is visible, pointing in to the centre. From the pavilion, the pattern is eight hearts, again with their bases pointing towards the middle. The shapes are caused by the way that the configuration of facets blocks the light from certain directions.

These distinctive and highly-prized patterns are only evident when the diamond is cut exactly right. The 'table' - the flat surface at the top of the crown - must be precisely perpendicular, or at right angles, to the pavilion. This perfect optical symmetry allows the light to act in the right way to produce the characteristic patterns. However, the cut does not lead a diamond to sparkle more than other designs. The sparkle is determined more by the individual facets on the diamond, rather than the overall alignment of the major facets.

In fact, because the hearts and arrows appear as dark grey or even black shapes, this kind of diamond may appear to have shadows in it when viewed in certain lights and from certain angles.

Choosing a conflict free diamond

If you are looking for a custom engagement ring, you could be forgiven for thinking that Hearts and Arrows was synonymous with desirability. And it might be, to some people. Others choose a diamond on different grounds, such as for its brilliance - or perhaps will prefer a different cut altogether. After all, this specific pattern is only a feature of the Round Brilliant and, whilst a popular cut, there are many others available and possibly ones that will be subjectively more attractive to you.

It's also worth remembering that there is no absolute standard when it comes to assessing a diamond. Some will have a clear pattern; in other cases, it may be less distinct. Some experts grade the patterns, others do not. And, even when a stone is given the highest grade of cut, the Hearts and Arrows may not be easily visible.