http://www.ingleandrhode.com/blog Precious Metals & Gemstones, Socially and Environmentally Responsible Jeweller en tim.ingle@ingleandrhode.com Copyright Ingle & Rhode,2010 2010-07-15T22:09:00+00:00 http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-diamonds/ingle-rhode-on-the-one-show/ http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-diamonds/ingle-rhode-on-the-one-show/#When:22:09:00Z Watch an interview with Tim Ingle of Ingle & Rhode on BBC1's The One Show about the ethical issues with diamonds Watch the clip below to see Tim Ingle of Ingle & Rhode interviewed about the ethical issues with diamonds for BBC1's the One Show.     Ethical Diamonds 2010-07-15T22:09:00+00:00 http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-jewellery/bbc-radio-4-interview/ http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-jewellery/bbc-radio-4-interview/#When:13:53:00Z David Rhode of Ingle & Rhode was interviewed by BBC Radio 4 for the "You and Yours" programme broadcast on 18th March 2010. Following the announcement by the Fairtrade Labelling Organisations (FLO) and the Association for Responsible Mining (ARM) of new Fairtrade and Fairmined gold standards, David Rhode of Ingle & Rhode was interviewed by BBC Radio 4 for the "You and Yours" programme broadcast on 18th March 2010. David talked about how we source fairtrade gold and know the provenance of all our precious metals, diamonds and gemstones. You can listen to the interview by clicking here. Ethical Jewellery 2010-03-22T13:53:00+00:00 http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/conflict-free-diamonds/kimberley-process-monitor-finally-arrives-in-zimbabwe/ http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/conflict-free-diamonds/kimberley-process-monitor-finally-arrives-in-zimbabwe/#When:12:29:00Z After four months of squabbling, a candidate has finally been appointed to monitor the Chiadzwa diamond fields in Zimbabwe. Abbey Chikane is a former Chairman of the Kimberley Process, and heads the South African Diamond Board. After four months of squabbling, a candidate has finally been appointed to monitor the Chiadzwa diamond fields in Zimbabwe. Abbey Chikane is a former Chairman of the Kimberley Process, and heads the South African Diamond Board. Since arriving in Zimbabwe in early March he has met with state-authorised mining firms and ministry officials. Last year the Kimberley Process issued a set of guidelines to bring Zimbabwe back in line with international standards, and Chikane's appointment is a part of this. Zimbabwe has until June to comply with the guidelines, having narrowly escaped a trade ban over human rights abuses at the diamond fields. So far, the government has largely ignored the guidelines. Should the watchdog rule that Zimbabwe has failed to comply, it is likely that the country will sell diamonds without Kimberley Process certification, according to Mines Minister Obert Mpofu, who has repeated threats made by Robert Mugabe to that effect. He was quoted in the press as saying: “If the KP is unsatisfied with our efforts and wants to be difficult saying that we have failed to comply with their requirements... we will not lose sleep, but rather we will just pull out and not lose anything. The KP does not own the diamond trade markets. Zimbabwe will pull out of the KP and sell its diamonds to those markets.” Gabriel Shumba, from the Zimbabwe Bloods Diamonds Campaign, believes that the threat is not an idle one. In spite of the existence of the Kimberley Process, which was established to halt the trade in conflict diamonds, according to Shumba there are still ways of selling diamonds “regardless of the abuses taking place when these stones are mined.” Finance Minister Tendai Biti has demanded that the laws governing the country’s diamond trade should be completely overhauled, and that all the mining leases issued by the government  to firms in the Chiadzwa diamond field should be cancelled. Biti claimed that some of the leases were awarded ‘fraudulently’, and that despite millions of diamonds being mined, there is no revenue being generated for the government: “There is nothing coming from Chiadzwa. There is nothing coming to the fiscus from Chiadzwa. Chiadzwa represents the biggest find of alluvial diamonds in the history of mankind. In the interest of transparency, all mining licences, leases, special grants that have been given in Chiadzwa must be cancelled forthwith. All mining operations must cease. There must be a new diamond law in Zimbabwe.” Conflict Free Diamonds 2010-03-18T12:29:00+00:00 http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-jewellery/fairtrade-and-fairmined-gold-standards-launched/ http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-jewellery/fairtrade-and-fairmined-gold-standards-launched/#When:14:56:00Z Ingle & Rhode congratulates Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International (FLO) and the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) on their announcement of a historic partnership for gold from artisanal and small scale miners by launching Fairtrade and Fairmined gold standards. Ingle & Rhode would like to congratulate Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International (FLO) and the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) on their announcement today of a historic partnership for gold from artisanal and small scale miners by launching Fairtrade and Fairmined gold standards. Please see below a copy of their press release of 17th March 2010: FLO and ARM create historic partnership for gold from artisanal and small scale miners by launching Fairtrade and Fairmined gold standards ·      Alleviating poverty ·      Minimising environmental impacts ·      Traceable gold Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International (FLO) and the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM) have developed the first ever third party independent certification for gold to bring about social, environmental and economic development in artisanal and small-scale mining communities. The partnership will enable both organisations to meet shared strategic objectives, creating a system to ensure that artisanal and small-scale miners (ASM) can earn a better price for their gold. The partnership will be communicated on product via a co-labelling hallmark using both the FAIRTRADE and FAIRMINED Marks. The new Fairtrade and Fairmined gold standards mean that interested businesses can use the FAIRTRADE and FAIRMINED marks on certified gold products such as jewellery, commemorative coins, ingots, medals, trophies and religious artefacts. An industry market survey of 96 companies across 11 countries identified consumer products such as wedding rings, dress rings, necklaces, earrings and bracelets as potential products. Globally, over 100 million people who depend directly or indirectly on artisanal and small-scale mining are  trapped in unfair supply chains, and struggle to get a fair price for the gold they mine. The democratic organisation of miners, combined with added premium  and increased access to markets, will allow miners’ organisations to improve the technology and working conditions at their mining sites, and also to develop community projects in education, health, environmental restoration and other forms of income. This would lead to more enduring and sustainable development in mining communities . Artisanal and small scale miners produce just 15% of global annual gold supplies, but make up 90% of labour in gold extraction. Through Fairtrade and Fairmined certification, miners can improve their economic, social, labour and environmental conditions. The Fairtrade and Fairmined standard means that: 1.     Miners will get a better price for their gold, with increased security of the Fairtrade guaranteed minimum price. The Fairtrade minimum price for the pure gold content in unrefined gold is set at 95% of the London Bullion Market Association’s (LBMA) fixing at the FOB export point. 2.     Miners will receive a Fairtrade social premium, calculated as 10% of the applicable LBMA fixing. For Ecological Gold, gold that has been extracted without the use of chemicals and with strict ecological restoration requirements, an additional ecological premium, calculated as 5% of the applicable LBMA fixing on top of the Fairtrade premium must be paid. 3.     Miners have the opportunity to empower themselves through their organisation. They form groups to give themselves better bargaining power with traders, to get a fairer return for their produce, and gain greater control over the jewellery supply chain. Though the price of gold is widely known in gold mining communities, miners often receive less owing to the number of middle-men between the miner and exporter. Once everyone takes their percentage, the miner may receive as little as 70% of the LBMA. Fairtrade and Fairmined certification will provide miners the chance to ask for pre-financing from prospective buyers, and provide miners with a minimum price for their product creating more competition in local markets and so improving trading relations to the benefit of the miner. 4.     Certified miners must use safe and responsible practices for management of toxic chemicals in gold recovery, such as mercury and cyanide. Chemicals have to be reduced to a minimum, and where possible eliminated over the years. Miners earn an additional ecological premium when they recover gold through gravity only. 5.     The Fairtrade and Fairmined gold will not contribute to conflict or violence. On the contrary, where certified organisations are located in conflict areas, increased economic stability, traceability and transparency from sale of their certified gold may help contribute to peace-building. Harriet Lamb, Executive Director of the Fairtrade Foundation said: ‘Companies and consumers will embrace this golden opportunity to make a real difference to miners’ lives. The launch of Fairtrade and Fairmined standards for gold provides a lifeline for communities who find themselves at the mercy of unbalanced markets, when agriculture and other livelihoods are not viable. Many face exploitation from middle men who pay below market prices and cheat them on weight and purity of the gold content. Mining community members lack basic sanitation, clean and safe drinking water, poor housing, little or no access to education and healthcare and are financially unstable. The Fairtrade and Fairmined standards are an important development tool, and will complement other development interventions. ‘Our research shows that customers believe buying jewellery for a special occasion holds greater value and significance if it carried the Fairtrade and Fairmined hallmark. People said that the label reassures both the giver and receiver that the miners are getting a better deal.’ Cristina Echavarria, ARM´s Executive Director, said: ‘The Fairtrade and Fairmined Standards are the best standards in the market today for gold in terms of development impact on mining communities. They even set an example for the large-scale mining industry on issues such as traceability. Fairtrade and Fairmined is the premium among consumer labels, taken up by the most conscious consumers, a growing market segment that is setting future trends. Through them artisanal and small-scale miners all over the world will gain legitimacy and recognition by the mining sector and governments so that a historically disenfranchised group, often abused by illegal groups, can finally get recognition for its contribution to the livelihoods of millions, and access the hearts and minds of consumers who want to ensure that through their jewellery purchase, they can improve the lives and the environment of mining communities. Their decision is already impacting the whole of the mining and jewellery industries. This is a fundamental reason why we at ARM are so proud to have achieved this partnership with FLO and why the miners are so keen to deliver responsibly produced Fairtrade and Fairmined gold to ethical jewellers and consumers.’ The standard was piloted by ARM with nine legally established mining producer organisations in Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru and now applications are open to all small-scale and artisanal gold mining organizations in Latin America. More producer organisations from Latin America are expected to join the system in 2011 and beyond. As from 2010 ARM will establish a network of pilot projects in Africa, and later in Asia. Manuel Reinoso Rivas, President of the Association of Artisanal Miner Producers of Central and Southern Peru, and ARM Board member says: ‘Fairtrade and Fairmined certification motivates all artisanal and small-scale miners, men and women alike, to press for better working conditions and above all improved health and safety. We need to learn how to use clean, non-polluting technologies that will not only preserve our environment but also help us recover increased quantities of metals. We are determined to cut the number of accidents and reduce the impact of occupational disease and help our workplaces and our communities to provide our fellow miners, our families, our wives and our children with a secure quality of life and an environment free from major risks and able to coexist with ours and others productive activities.   In fulfilling this responsibility we are contributing to a better quality of life and setting an example to our own children and to future generations.’ Fairtrade and Fairmined gold will be initially launched in the UK and then rolled out to other countries with a long term vision of capturing 5% of the gold jewellery market over a 15-year period, totalling 15 tonnes of Fairtrade and Fairmined gold annually. Fairtrade and Fairmined gold will be co-labelled, bearing both the FAIRTRADE Mark and the FAIRMINED Mark in order to present to the consumer the strength of the partnership between the two organisations. – ENDS – Cristina Echavarria Executive Director ARM cechavarria@communitymining.org +574 3330188 +44 020 3286 0579 http://www.communitymining.org       Patrick Schein Board Member ARM schein.patrick@gmail.com +33 6 61 36 12 30 Martine Julseth Media and PR Manager Fairtrade Foundation +44 (0)20 7440 7695/07825 827 791 martine.julseth@fairtrade.org.uk Laura Zonka Media Relations Manager FLO +49 228 94923 282 l.zonka@fairtrade.net Notes to Editors 1.     The FAIRTRADE Mark is a certification mark and a registered trademark of Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International (FLO) of which the Fairtrade Foundation is the UK member. The Fairtrade Foundation is an independent certification body which licenses the use of the FAIRTRADE Mark on products which meet international Fairtrade standards. This independent consumer label is now recognised by 72% of UK consumers and appears on products as a guarantee that disadvantaged producers are getting a better deal. Today, more than 7.5 million people – farmers, workers and their families – across 58 developing countries benefit from the international Fairtrade system. 2.     The FAIRMINED Mark ensures that the gold has been extracted and processed in a fair way and responsible manner.  This means that the miners receive a fair price, eliminate child labour, ensure good health and safety practises, care for the environment and participate in the social development of their communities. 3.     FLO sets the standards for Fairtrade. The organization unites national Fairtrade organizations across Europe, North America, Japan, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, as well as producer networks representing Fairtrade certified producer organizations in Latin America, Africa and Asia.  Today, more than five million people - farmers, workers and their families - across 59 developing countries benefit from the international Fairtrade system. 4.     ARM is an international community-based multi-sector governed initiative created to enhance equity and wellbeing in artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM) communities. Working with miners and NGO´s ARM developed the original Standard Zero upon which ARM and FLO later developed the Fairtrade and Fairmined Standards for Gold from Artisanal and Small Scale Mining, including associated precious metals.  Through site based and product certification and corresponding market incentives, ARM supports small-scale and artisanal mining organisations and communities to meet criteria for responsible social, labour, environmental, and trading practices, and does advocacy work with governments for improved rights for ASM. ARM is committed to social justice and environmental responsibility as the values driving the transformation of ASM. 5.     ARM's vision is for ASM to become a formalised, organised and profitable activity that uses efficient technologies, and is socially and environmentally responsible, that increasingly develops within a framework of good governance, legality, participation and respect for diversity, it increases its contribution to the generation of decent work, local development, poverty reduction and social peace in our nations, driven by a growing consumer demand for sustainable minerals and ethical jewellery. 6.     Over 4,500 products have been licensed to carry the FAIRTRADE Mark including coffee, tea, herbal teas, chocolate, cocoa, sugar, bananas, grapes, pineapples, mangoes, avocados, apples, pears, plums, grapefruit, lemons, oranges, satsumas, clementines, mandarins, lychees, coconuts, dried fruit, juices, smoothies, biscuits, cakes & snacks, honey, jams & preserves, chutney & sauces, rice, quinoa, herbs &  spices, seeds, nuts & nut oil, wines, beers, rum, confectionary, muesli, cereal bars, yoghurt, ice-cream, flowers, sports balls, sugar body scrub and cotton products including clothing, homeware, cloth toys, cotton wool and olive oil. Please visit the ARM and FLO websites for the full PR. Cristina Echavarria Alliance for Responsible Mining ARM http://www.communitymining.org PBX: 574-3330188 Ethical Jewellery 2010-03-17T14:56:00+00:00 http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-jewellery/fair-trade-grows-despite-the-downturn/ http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-jewellery/fair-trade-grows-despite-the-downturn/#When:14:47:00Z According to figures from the Fairtrade Foundation, sales of fair trade goods and services in the UK continued to grow in 2009 despite the economic downturn, exceeding £799m at retail, which was 12% up on 2008. According to figures from the Fairtrade Foundation, sales of fairtrade goods and services in the UK continued to grow in 2009 despite the economic downturn, exceeding £799m at retail, which was 12% up on 2008. While this is great news, it needs to be viewed in the context of increased hardship for many in the developing world. According to UN figures, the global economic turndown has forced somewhere between 50 million and 90 million more people into extreme poverty in 2009. Big name brands are increasingly throwing their weight behind the fair trade movement and today over 4,500 retail and catering products have been licensed to carry the FAIRTRADE Mark, and independent consumer label that appears on products as a guarantee that disadvantaged producers are getting a better deal. The FAIRTRADE Mark a registered trademark of Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International (FLO) of which the Fairtrade Foundation is the UK member, and which licenses the use of the FAIRTRADE Mark in the UK on products which meet international Fairtrade standards.  Unfortunately, at present there are no precious metals, diamonds or other gemstones that carry the FAIRTRADE Mark, but progress is being made in this area. Ingle & Rhode sources fair trade gold from Oro Verde™ in Colombia which is participating in a pilot project with the FLO to establishing this certification of fairtrade gold.   We are confident that Oro Verde™ will be given the FAIRTRADE Mark in due course and proud to be supporting them on their pioneering journey to achieving this. Ethical Jewellery 2010-03-11T14:47:00+00:00 http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-diamonds/synthetic-diamonds-a-growth-industry/ http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-diamonds/synthetic-diamonds-a-growth-industry/#When:22:00:00Z In contrast to fake diamonds, which are simply lookalikes made from other materials, synthetic diamonds are stones that have been created in the lab instead of by geological processes. Man-made diamonds tend to be slightly less expensive than mined stones, and are a growing choice for bespoke jewellery. They share similar properties to natural stones, and their origins mean that they are by default conflict-free. In contrast to fake diamonds, which are simply lookalikes made from other materials, synthetic diamonds are stones that have been created in the lab instead of by geological processes. Man-made diamonds tend to be slightly less expensive than mined stones, and are a growing choice for bespoke jewellery. They share similar properties to natural stones, and their origins mean that they are by default conflict-free. Processes After the discovery that diamonds were pure carbon in 1797, a number of scientists tried to create them – a few with some limited success, though no reliable method was developed until the 1950s. Synthetic diamonds are now made in a variety of ways, including HPHT (high pressure, high temperature) and CVD (chemical vapour deposition). Other techniques are being developed, but are not yet as reliable or popular as these two. HPHT stones are made by subjecting carbon to extreme heat and pressure by means of a mechanical press and electrical current; CVD diamonds are ‘grown’ at much lower pressures by building up layers on a base surface from surrounding plasma. The control and flexibility inherent in this process lends it to industrial applications, such as coating machine components. However, both HPHT and CVD stones can be and are used as gemstones. They may be coloured, like natural stones, depending on the impurities present in the manufacturing process, and can be machined like mined diamonds. This has led to the creation of a new suite of technology aimed at distinguishing natural from synthetic stones. Properties Man-made diamonds may have better or worse properties than their natural counterparts, depending on various factors in their manufacture. They may, for example, be harder, or have better conductivity (of heat or electricity). As important is the method of manufacture: CVD is particularly useful for certain applications as it makes it possible to coat large surfaces with a thin film of diamond. Synthetic diamonds are often used in abrasives and cutting tools. Due to the nature of the technological processes involved, synthetic diamonds are usually fairly small. Theoretically, large diamonds could be grown and probably will be one day. For now, however, this is prohibitively expensive and the largest diamonds are still natural. De Beers has grown 25 carat stones, but most are no more than 1.5 carats. By contrast, the largest natural rough diamond was in excess of 3,000 carats, and the largest polished stone was more than 500 carats. Ethical Diamonds 2010-01-27T22:00:00+00:00 http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-diamonds/how-diamonds-became-a-girls-best-friend/ http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/ethical-diamonds/how-diamonds-became-a-girls-best-friend/#When:22:00:00Z Diamonds entered popular culture in a big way in the years following World War II. There were a number of reasons for this development, which saw a surge in the number of custom engagement rings and other pieces of jewellery featuring the stone. In 1947 De Beers ran an enormously successful advertising campaign based on the phrase ‘A Diamond is Forever’ – voted the best advertising slogan of the century in 2000. Two years later, the Broadway production of Gentlemen Prefer Blondes featured the song ‘Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend.’ Diamonds entered popular culture in a big way in the years following World War II. There were a number of reasons for this development, which saw a surge in the number of custom engagement rings and other pieces of jewellery featuring the stone. In 1947 De Beers ran an enormously successful advertising campaign based on the phrase ‘A Diamond is Forever’ – voted the best advertising slogan of the century in 2000. Two years later, the Broadway production of Gentlemen Prefer Blondes featured the song ‘Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend.’ The magic of Monroe In 1953, Marilyn Monroe would famously bring this song to audiences across the world with the film version of Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. The movie tapped into a spirit of female independence fostered by the war years and changing social roles. In the film, Monroe sings the song in a nightclub, surrounded by wealthy men – the implication being that she is taking advantage of them for their money. Monroe actually sang the song herself, although one phrase, ‘These rocks don’t lose their shape’, caused her problems and had to be provided by a professional soprano. The sincerest compliment Marilyn’s performance of ‘Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend’ sparked a slew of imitations as later singers sought to emulate what had become an iconic moment in cinematic history. Madonna, Kylie Minogue and Nicole Kidman are three famous examples. Kidman’s cover of the song was employed in the film Moulin Rouge, directed by Baz Luhrmann. Again, the setting is a nightclub and the exploitation of wealthy men by the female singer. In keeping with the style and themes of the film, a number of changes were made to the lyrics, including the list of jewellers in the original, which now included the name of the Moulin Rouge’s founder, Harry Zidler. Country, Rock and Jazz versions of the song have also been recorded, indicating the song and its sentiment’s enduring popularity and resonance in the public consciousness. Ethical Diamonds 2010-01-25T22:00:00+00:00 http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/bespoke-jewellery/jewelley-from-russia-with-love/ http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/bespoke-jewellery/jewelley-from-russia-with-love/#When:22:00:00Z The Kremlin in Moscow houses an unparalleled collection of Russian jewellery, known as the Diamond Fund. The collection is now kept in the Armoury building but originates in the Royal Treasury created in 1719 by Emperor Peter I of Russia, which he stored in the Winter Palace in St Petersburg. It comprises a large number of gemstones, pieces of jewellery and natural gold nuggets. The famous Kremlin in Moscow houses an unparalleled collection of Russian jewellery, known as the Diamond Fund. The collection is now kept in the Armoury building but originates in the Royal Treasury created in 1719 by Emperor Peter I of Russia, which he stored in the Winter Palace in St Petersburg. It comprises a large number of gemstones, pieces of jewellery and natural gold nuggets. A Great legacy Peter I – also known as Peter the Great – was Russia’s Tsar from 1672 until his death in 1725. He was famous for his modernising and expansionist policy, which turned Russia into an empire and a major European power. The vast majority of the Diamond Fund was established by Peter himself and his immediate successors, a reflection of the nation’s prosperity and success during the 55 years of his reign and the following period. Although later rulers did add to the collection, they did so in relatively small quantities. One study, carried out in the 1920s, indicates that 85 percent of the Fund originates in the period up to 1855 (from Peter’s reign to that of Nicholas I). The last emperors – Alexander II, Alexander III, Nicholas II and the disputed emperor Mikhail II, who only reigned for part of 1917 before the Revolution – account for just 15 percent of the total. The Fund is a small subset of the much larger State Fund of Precious Stones. Exhibits The Fund was moved to Moscow from St Petersburg at the onset of the First World War in an effort to keep it safe. The collection was not displayed in public until 1967. Originally conceived as a temporary exhibition, it was made a permanent fixture the next year due in part to its enormous popularity. The Fund includes a number of pieces of royal regalia. These include the Crown of Monomakh, the first crown to be used in Russia by the Princes of Moscow, which probably dates to the 13th or 14th century. It also houses the Imperial Crown of Russia, worn by Catherine the Great and the rulers who followed her. One of the most impressive pieces is the Imperial Sceptre – also from Catherine’s time – which holds the Orlov Diamond, a huge, 189-carat stone. The Fund also holds a number of pieces of bespoke jewellery such as the Shah Diamond (an extremely clear 89-carat stone), a 260-carat sapphire, and numerous Fabergé eggs. Bespoke Jewellery 2010-01-22T22:00:00+00:00 http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/bespoke-jewellery/say-how-you-feel-with-acrostic-jewellery/ http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/bespoke-jewellery/say-how-you-feel-with-acrostic-jewellery/#When:22:00:00Z Acrostics are now a relatively unusual theme for clients requesting bespoke jewellery but the appeal is still clear for those wishing to make a very personal declaration of love. Acrostics – spelling a message using the first letter of a series of words – have a long history, though the practice of incorporating this in jewellery probably dates to the 18th century at the earliest. Acrostics are now a relatively unusual theme for clients requesting bespoke jewellery but the appeal is still clear for those wishing to make a very personal declaration of love. Acrostics – spelling a message using the first letter of a series of words – have a long history, though the practice of incorporating this in jewellery probably dates to the 18th century at the earliest. Origins of acrostics The word ‘acrostic’ derives from a Greek term meaning ‘top of a verse’, indicating that the device has been in use for three millennia or more. In the Old Testament, several of the Hebrew psalms use acrostics, with each line or verse beginning with successive letters of the alphabet, perhaps to convey a sense of God’s completeness. Fearful of persecution, early Christians used to identify themselves to each other with a fish symbol (still used today, though for different reasons), because the Greek letters of the word fish (‘ichthus’) are the first letters of the words ‘Jesus Christ, God’s son, saviour’. It is entirely possible that the use of acrostics is as old as the first alphabet, which was probably developed from more complex scripts around 1800 BC. Read between the lines Acrostics were commonly used in poems and letters to convey secret messages. Many Victorian poems, perhaps most famously ‘Elizabeth’ by Edgar Allen Poe, hide the names of people or places, or express love for someone. The first modern use of acrostic jewellery seems to date to late-18th or early-19th century France, and quickly spread to England and America. Words would be spelled out using the first letter of a series of stones; for example, ‘Love’ could be spelled with lapis, opal, vermeil and emerald. Napoleon Bonaparte had a number of pieces made to commemorate special events. Acrostics’ popularity were driven by a sense of romance and secrecy, although they were used more widely than this – at one time, some women would even select a stone to wear based on the first letter of the day of the week. Bespoke Jewellery 2010-01-20T22:00:00+00:00 http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/bespoke-jewellery/edwardian-jewellery-a-new-era-of-style/ http://www.ingleandrhode.co.uk/ethical-diamonds-blog/bespoke-jewellery/edwardian-jewellery-a-new-era-of-style/#When:22:00:01Z A style that clients often request when ordering bespoke jewellery is Edwardian. The Edwardian era began in 1901 when Queen Victoria’s first son, Prince Albert Edward, acceded the throne on her death. The turn of the century was a time of optimistic fashion and sophistication – the ‘Belle Epoque’ that saw the development of new technologies such as the car, plane and cinema, and economic prosperity. Edward died in 1910, but the Edwardian period is generally assumed to end with the beginning of the First World War in 1914. A style that clients often request when ordering bespoke jewellery is Edwardian. The Edwardian era began in 1901 when Queen Victoria’s first son, Prince Albert Edward, acceded the throne on her death. The turn of the century was a time of optimistic fashion and sophistication – the ‘Belle Epoque’ that saw the development of new technologies such as the car, plane and cinema, and economic prosperity. Edward died in 1910, but the Edwardian period is generally assumed to end with the beginning of the First World War in 1914. The lighter side Platinum became a popular metal in this period, as its strength allowed very fine settings to be created for stones, giving a light and even ‘invisible’ appearance. White gold was sometimes used as a cheaper alternative, and more so after the beginning of the war when platinum grew scarcer due to its strategic qualities. Edwardian diamond engagement rings are still very popular today and typically feature filigree detail and antique stones in Old Mine or Old European cuts – early forms of brilliant cut. Platinum’s white sheen highlighted diamonds to excellent effect, and pearls were used for the same reason. But coloured stones also experienced a resurgence in popularity. Alexandra, Edward’s wife, favoured amethyst. During the suffragette movement these were sometimes combined with pearls and peridots, the green, white and violet stones standing for ‘Give Women the Vote’. Inspired by India Edward embarked on an eight-month tour of India in 1875, and the influence that this had on the prince and his wife is evident in some of the styles they favoured afterwards. Feathers worn in the hair and decorated with precious stones (diamond aigrettes), chokers and sautoirs – long chains of stones ending in a tassel – are three examples. Brooches and pins were popular, often with filigree designs, stars and crescents. Necklaces with pendants of various kinds were used to accent the face and neck; the fashion of the time was to wear high collars in the day and low necklines in the evening. Decorations more common in the 18th century were revived, such as tassels, wreaths, bows and swags. Bespoke Jewellery 2010-01-18T22:00:01+00:00