Fairtrade grows despite the downturn

According to figures from the Fairtrade Foundation, sales of fairtrade goods and services in the UK continued to grow in 2009 despite the economic downturn, exceeding £799m at retail, which was 12% up on 2008.

While this is great news, it needs to be viewed in the context of increased hardship for many in the developing world. According to UN figures, the global economic turndown has forced somewhere between 50 million and 90 million more people into extreme poverty in 2009.
Big name brands are increasingly throwing their weight behind the fair trade movement and today over 4,500 retail and catering products have been licensed to carry the FAIRTRADE Mark, and independent consumer label that appears on products as a guarantee that disadvantaged producers are getting a better deal.

The FAIRTRADE Mark a registered trademark of Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International (FLO) of which the Fairtrade Foundation is the UK member, and which licenses the use of the FAIRTRADE Mark in the UK on products which meet international Fairtrade standards. 

Unfortunately, at present there are no precious metals, diamonds or other gemstones that carry the FAIRTRADE Mark, but progress is being made in this area.

Ingle & Rhode sources fair trade gold from Oro Verde™ in Colombia which is participating in a pilot project with the FLO to establishing this certification of fairtrade gold.

 
We are confident that Oro Verde™ will be given the FAIRTRADE Mark in due course and proud to be supporting them on their pioneering journey to achieving this.

Synthetic Diamonds: A Growth Industry

In contrast to fake diamonds, which are simply lookalikes made from other materials, synthetic diamonds are stones that have been created in the lab instead of by geological processes.

Man-made diamonds tend to be slightly less expensive than mined stones, and are a growing choice for bespoke jewellery. They share similar properties to natural stones, and their origins mean that they are by default conflict-free.

Processes

After the discovery that diamonds were pure carbon in 1797, a number of scientists tried to create them – a few with some limited success, though no reliable method was developed until the 1950s. Synthetic diamonds are now made in a variety of ways, including HPHT (high pressure, high temperature) and CVD (chemical vapour deposition). Other techniques are being developed, but are not yet as reliable or popular as these two.

HPHT stones are made by subjecting carbon to extreme heat and pressure by means of a mechanical press and electrical current; CVD diamonds are ‘grown’ at much lower pressures by building up layers on a base surface from surrounding plasma. The control and flexibility inherent in this process lends it to industrial applications, such as coating machine components. However, both HPHT and CVD stones can be and are used as gemstones.

They may be coloured, like natural stones, depending on the impurities present in the manufacturing process, and can be machined like mined diamonds. This has led to the creation of a new suite of technology aimed at distinguishing natural from synthetic stones.

Properties

Man-made diamonds may have better or worse properties than their natural counterparts, depending on various factors in their manufacture. They may, for example, be harder, or have better conductivity (of heat or electricity). As important is the method of manufacture: CVD is particularly useful for certain applications as it makes it possible to coat large surfaces with a thin film of diamond. Synthetic diamonds are often used in abrasives and cutting tools.

Due to the nature of the technological processes involved, synthetic diamonds are usually fairly small. Theoretically, large diamonds could be grown and probably will be one day. For now, however, this is prohibitively expensive and the largest diamonds are still natural. De Beers has grown 25 carat stones, but most are no more than 1.5 carats. By contrast, the largest natural rough diamond was in excess of 3,000 carats, and the largest polished stone was more than 500 carats.

How diamonds became a girl’s best friend

Diamonds entered popular culture in a big way in the years following World War II. There were a number of reasons for this development, which saw a surge in the number of custom engagement rings and other pieces of jewellery featuring the stone. In 1947 De Beers ran an enormously successful advertising campaign based on the phrase ‘A Diamond is Forever’ – voted the best advertising slogan of the century in 2000. Two years later, the Broadway production of Gentlemen Prefer Blondes featured the song ‘Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend.’

The magic of Monroe

In 1953, Marilyn Monroe would famously bring this song to audiences across the world with the film version of Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. The movie tapped into a spirit of female independence fostered by the war years and changing social roles. In the film, Monroe sings the song in a nightclub, surrounded by wealthy men – the implication being that she is taking advantage of them for their money. Monroe actually sang the song herself, although one phrase, ‘These rocks don’t lose their shape’, caused her problems and had to be provided by a professional soprano.

The sincerest compliment

Marilyn’s performance of ‘Diamonds are a Girl’s Best Friend’ sparked a slew of imitations as later singers sought to emulate what had become an iconic moment in cinematic history. Madonna, Kylie Minogue and Nicole Kidman are three famous examples.

Kidman’s cover of the song was employed in the film Moulin Rouge, directed by Baz Luhrmann. Again, the setting is a nightclub and the exploitation of wealthy men by the female singer. In keeping with the style and themes of the film, a number of changes were made to the lyrics, including the list of jewellers in the original, which now included the name of the Moulin Rouge’s founder, Harry Zidler. Country, Rock and Jazz versions of the song have also been recorded, indicating the song and its sentiment’s enduring popularity and resonance in the public consciousness.

Jewelley, from Russia with love

The famous Kremlin in Moscow houses an unparalleled collection of Russian jewellery, known as the Diamond Fund. The collection is now kept in the Armoury building but originates in the Royal Treasury created in 1719 by Emperor Peter I of Russia, which he stored in the Winter Palace in St Petersburg. It comprises a large number of gemstones, pieces of jewellery and natural gold nuggets.

A Great legacy

Peter I – also known as Peter the Great – was Russia’s Tsar from 1672 until his death in 1725. He was famous for his modernising and expansionist policy, which turned Russia into an empire and a major European power. The vast majority of the Diamond Fund was established by Peter himself and his immediate successors, a reflection of the nation’s prosperity and success during the 55 years of his reign and the following period.

Although later rulers did add to the collection, they did so in relatively small quantities. One study, carried out in the 1920s, indicates that 85 percent of the Fund originates in the period up to 1855 (from Peter’s reign to that of Nicholas I). The last emperors – Alexander II, Alexander III, Nicholas II and the disputed emperor Mikhail II, who only reigned for part of 1917 before the Revolution – account for just 15 percent of the total. The Fund is a small subset of the much larger State Fund of Precious Stones.

Exhibits

The Fund was moved to Moscow from St Petersburg at the onset of the First World War in an effort to keep it safe. The collection was not displayed in public until 1967. Originally conceived as a temporary exhibition, it was made a permanent fixture the next year due in part to its enormous popularity.

The Fund includes a number of pieces of royal regalia. These include the Crown of Monomakh, the first crown to be used in Russia by the Princes of Moscow, which probably dates to the 13th or 14th century. It also houses the Imperial Crown of Russia, worn by Catherine the Great and the rulers who followed her.

One of the most impressive pieces is the Imperial Sceptre – also from Catherine’s time – which holds the Orlov Diamond, a huge, 189-carat stone. The Fund also holds a number of pieces of bespoke jewellery such as the Shah Diamond (an extremely clear 89-carat stone), a 260-carat sapphire, and numerous Fabergé eggs.

Say how you feel with acrostic jewellery

Acrostics are now a relatively unusual theme for clients requesting bespoke jewellery but the appeal is still clear for those wishing to make a very personal declaration of love.

Acrostics – spelling a message using the first letter of a series of words – have a long history, though the practice of incorporating this in jewellery probably dates to the 18th century at the earliest.

Origins of acrostics

The word ‘acrostic’ derives from a Greek term meaning ‘top of a verse’, indicating that the device has been in use for three millennia or more. In the Old Testament, several of the Hebrew psalms use acrostics, with each line or verse beginning with successive letters of the alphabet, perhaps to convey a sense of God’s completeness. Fearful of persecution, early Christians used to identify themselves to each other with a fish symbol (still used today, though for different reasons), because the Greek letters of the word fish (‘ichthus’) are the first letters of the words ‘Jesus Christ, God’s son, saviour’. It is entirely possible that the use of acrostics is as old as the first alphabet, which was probably developed from more complex scripts around 1800 BC.

Read between the lines

Acrostics were commonly used in poems and letters to convey secret messages. Many Victorian poems, perhaps most famously ‘Elizabeth’ by Edgar Allen Poe, hide the names of people or places, or express love for someone.

The first modern use of acrostic jewellery seems to date to late-18th or early-19th century France, and quickly spread to England and America. Words would be spelled out using the first letter of a series of stones; for example, ‘Love’ could be spelled with lapis, opal, vermeil and emerald. Napoleon Bonaparte had a number of pieces made to commemorate special events. Acrostics’ popularity were driven by a sense of romance and secrecy, although they were used more widely than this – at one time, some women would even select a stone to wear based on the first letter of the day of the week.

Edwardian Jewellery: a new era of style

A style that clients often request when ordering bespoke jewellery is Edwardian. The Edwardian era began in 1901 when Queen Victoria’s first son, Prince Albert Edward, acceded the throne on her death. The turn of the century was a time of optimistic fashion and sophistication – the ‘Belle Epoque’ that saw the development of new technologies such as the car, plane and cinema, and economic prosperity. Edward died in 1910, but the Edwardian period is generally assumed to end with the beginning of the First World War in 1914.

The lighter side

Platinum became a popular metal in this period, as its strength allowed very fine settings to be created for stones, giving a light and even ‘invisible’ appearance. White gold was sometimes used as a cheaper alternative, and more so after the beginning of the war when platinum grew scarcer due to its strategic qualities. Edwardian diamond engagement rings are still very popular today and typically feature filigree detail and antique stones in Old Mine or Old European cuts – early forms of brilliant cut.

Platinum’s white sheen highlighted diamonds to excellent effect, and pearls were used for the same reason. But coloured stones also experienced a resurgence in popularity. Alexandra, Edward’s wife, favoured amethyst. During the suffragette movement these were sometimes combined with pearls and peridots, the green, white and violet stones standing for ‘Give Women the Vote’.

Inspired by India

Edward embarked on an eight-month tour of India in 1875, and the influence that this had on the prince and his wife is evident in some of the styles they favoured afterwards. Feathers worn in the hair and decorated with precious stones (diamond aigrettes), chokers and sautoirs – long chains of stones ending in a tassel – are three examples.

Brooches and pins were popular, often with filigree designs, stars and crescents. Necklaces with pendants of various kinds were used to accent the face and neck; the fashion of the time was to wear high collars in the day and low necklines in the evening. Decorations more common in the 18th century were revived, such as tassels, wreaths, bows and swags.

Victorian jewellery: leading by example

Clients looking for bespoke jewellery often ask for pieces in a particular historical style, and one of the most popular themes is Victorian jewellery.

Queen Victoria was crowned in 1837 and reigned until she died in 1901 – the longest reign of any British monarch. The six decades of her rule were a time of relative peace and prosperity, brought about in part by the technological, social and economic developments of the Industrial Revolution.

The changes that took place in the mid-late 19th century prompted a new middle class to emerge, bringing with it an increased demand for jewellery and other luxury goods. New technology meant that these items could now be mass-produced to satisfy a new generation of consumers.

Early fashion queen

As the first female monarch since Queen Anne, who died in 1714, Victoria was a natural source of fashion inspiration to women. In the first decades of her reign, bigger was better: voluminous skirts, expansive lace collars and long sleeves were all the rage. In the closing years of her reign and of the century, fashion became more pragmatic in nature as women joined the workforce in increasing numbers and engaged in new leisure pursuits. Jewellery, too, tended at first towards the large and more ornate, before becoming smaller and finer as time went on.

Sparking demand

Diamonds became more available and affordable after large deposits were found in the 1860s, and their popularity grew with the advent of electric lighting in the 1880s as this showed off their sparkle to best effect. For the less affluent, semi-precious stones could be substituted. Opals were one of Victoria’s personal favourites, but coral, turquoise, pearls, garnet and amethyst were also used. Stones were displayed in increasingly intricate and varied gold settings, as the metal was mined more widely and new techniques and appearances were developed. Originally, only 18 carat gold was hallmarked. In 1854, 9, 12 and 15 ct gold was allowed to receive a quality stamp too, paving the way for cheaper jewellery.

Nature themes were popular, particularly flowers. The snake was a frequent motif, due to Victoria’s use of it, and its associations with wisdom, luck and eternity. Keepsake jewellery – often incorporating a lock of hair from a loved one – was also common. After the queen’s husband, Prince Albert, died in 1861, mourning pieces suddenly became highly fashionable and much sought-after. These typically used black materials such as coloured enamel, jet and onyx.

A bright future for black diamonds

The unusual black form of diamond also known as Carbonado is becoming a more and more popular choice for bespoke jewellery. Naturally formed – though very likely in a different process to its sparklier clear cousin – the black diamond is a polycrystalline gem that is generally found in Brazil and Africa. It is usually black or dark grey, though brown stones are also known. Carbonado tends to be more porous than regular diamonds.

The origins of carbonado

The process by which black diamonds are formed is controversial and still not properly understood. A number of theories are current, and none have gained full acceptance by the scientific community. Carbonados are found in alluvial deposits, and neither Brazilian or African sites are associated with kimberlite – the type of volcanic rock in which diamonds are usually found.

Theories of carbonado origin include: the conversion of organic carbon in the same kind of high-temperature and high-pressure volcanic conditions in which regular diamonds are formed; metamorphosis of carbon under the stress of meteor impact; formation induced by radioactive fission of uranium; and formation in supernovas. None of these has proved entirely convincing, which has only added to the mystery and attraction of black diamonds.

Characteristics of black diamonds

Carbonados are made up of collections or ‘aggregates’ of many smaller black crystals. Chemical analysis suggests that they formed around 3 billion years ago, and yet they are found in younger, sedimentary rocks, again indicating their creation elsewhere. The type of ‘inclusions’ (internal pockets of impurities) common in regular diamonds tend not to be found in carbonados; instead of the pyrope and forsterite found in the earth’s mantle – the layer between the surface crust and molten core – elements typically present in the earth’s crust are detectable.

Black diamonds may not be for everyone, but in the right context they can certainly make a striking and unusual statement.

Historic Bespoke Engagement Ring

We recently had the pleasure of making a beautiful bespoke engagement ring for Joe Cripps and his fiancé Louise.

The central star sapphire and surrounding diamonds were taken from a tie pin which had belonged to Joe's great grandfather, the politician Sir Stafford Cripps. Sir Stafford, a member of the War Cabinet under Winston Churchill, was best known as Chancellor of the Exchequer in Clement Atlee's government in the late 1940s.

In the early 1940s Sir Stafford was sent to India to negotiate an agreement that would maintain India's support for the British war effort. He returned to India a few years later, when he was involved in the discussions that preceded Partition. It was while he was in India that he was presented with the tie pin which decades later would be transformed into Louise's engagement ring. Congratulations Joe and Louise!

 

The Many Shapes of Diamonds

Diamonds can be cut into many different shapes, determined by various factors including the natural properties of the rough stone, the personal taste of the consumer and the popular designs of the time. Although the Round Brilliant is one of the most common shapes of diamond used for bespoke jewellery due to its exceptional sparkle, it is by no means the only choice. Below we set out some of the most well known 'fancy cuts' available but developments in cutting technology mean that new shapes are continually being created.

The emerald-cut stone is a clean, rectangular- or occasionally square-cut diamond with a few simple step cuts (parallel to the girdle or circumference). As the name suggests, the cut is popular for emeralds. The corners of the stone are always ‘blocked' or truncated. Emerald-cut stones are generally of relatively high clarity because the simplicity of the style means that inclusions may otherwise be visible.

Baguettes tend to be relatively small, rectangular stones, usually with just a few step cuts and truncated corners like an emerald, and are frequently used to accent larger diamonds in bespoke engagement rings.

The Asscher was created by the Dutch Asscher brothers in 1902 and is a variation of the emerald cut. It is almost octagonal in shape thanks to its truncated corners. Its special feature is its pavilion, the bottom half of the stone, on which every side is step-cut down to the ‘culet' or point. The Asscher is often found in solitaire rings, or simply accented with other square-cut stones.

The Princess cut was developed in the 1970s and is another popular style. Once again, it is often based on a square shape. The cut has right-angled rather than blocked corners, and otherwise combines the triangle-shaped facets of the Brilliant with the step-cuts of the traditional emerald. They are often found in solitaire rings, though are also used with side stones for accent.

Radiants are similar, though with blocked corners and usually more rectangular.

The Cushion is a fairly unusual variant which, as the name suggests, has a soft-cornered pillow shape that combines square and circle.

Oval cuts combine the Round Brilliant's sparkle with a different geometry - typically around 1.5 times long as they are wide, though this is down to personal taste. To keep them in place, six-pointed mountings are often employed.

Marquise-cut stones are typically twice as long as they are wide, with tapered ends. The shape tends to make the finger look more elongated. They are also known as ‘navettes', French for ‘little boat', after the shape.

The Pear is unusual in that it is an asymmetric cut, round at one end and pointed at the other. It is particularly appropriate for earrings or as a pendant, though is also used as a centrepiece for a ring. Good symmetry is important so that the light is reflected and refracted properly through the stone.

Finally, Trillions are striking triangular-cut stones which again use both step-cutting and the faceting of the brilliant cut. They are frequently used for accent, but rarely as a central stone.

 

Late Georgian jewellery: a revolution in style

Another popular style often requested for pieces of bespoke jewellery is Late Georgian, which encompasses the reigns of the British kings George III and IV (1760-1820 and 1820-1830), as well as William IV (1830-1837). This period was a time of social and political change, and these monarchs’ combined rule was set against the backdrop of the American Revolution, French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars.

Late Georgian style

Late Georgian jewellery is relatively rare and highly sought-after by collectors. Although there was no one uniform style, and pieces differed to an extent depending on region, the so-called Neoclassical Revival of Napoleon’s reign was a significant influence.

Previously heavy and complex, jewellery became lighter and finer, incorporating a range of new features, such as floral motifs, feathers and scrolls. One of the reasons that Late Georgian jewellery is so rare is that people increasingly began to set their jewels in more modern pieces as time went on. However, the skill of the jeweller was almost unparalleled at this time, so existing pieces tend to be of very high quality.

A golden age of rare jewellery

Due to the Napoleonic wars, diamonds were scarce and highly prized. Stones were usually rose-cut, and settings were carefully-made to emphasise their size. The curiosity of Berlin Iron was another result of the war; German citizens were requested to give their gold to the war effort and would receive black, cast-iron copies of their pieces in return – a style that persisted for several decades into peacetime. Necklaces tended to accent the low necklines in vogue at the time. Rows of graduated gemstones (‘rivieres’) were popular, as were cameos and mosaics set in plaques and with rows of chain draped between them (‘en esclavage’).

Memento mori (‘remembrance of death’) jewellery experienced a revival. Lockets and other pieces containing a lock of hair or incorporating an inscribed name were popular, as well as other mourning pieces depicting funeral scenes and other reminders of the departed and wearer’s own mortality. Miniatures – in brooches, bracelets and pendants – also formed reminders of the living or dead for a time before photography.

Vivid Pink diamond in record auction

A potentially flawless five-carat pink diamond has sold at Christie’s for a sum of $10.8 million – a record $2.1 million per carat. The previous per-carat record was set by a 7.03-carat internally flawless fancy vivid blue stone, which sold at Sotheby’s for $9.48 million, or $1.35 million per carat, in May this year.

‘Internally Flawless’ or IF-grade diamonds are extremely rare, having no visible ‘inclusions’ (imperfections), even under 10-times magnification.

The diamond, which is cushion-cut and set in a ring by the internationally renowned jewellers Graff Diamonds, was expected to realise between $5 and $7 million at auction but the unique piece of bespoke jewellery exceeded expectations. International Head of Christie’s Jewellery department, Francois Curiel, commented: “It is extremely rare for a stone of such top quality to appear on the market with top notes in colour, cut, clarity and carat weight. This 5-carat vivid pink gem combines the best of all criteria. No stone has ever been sold for $2 million a carat; we were used to a million dollars a carat for colored diamonds but never $2 million. This is an absolute record that is not going to be broken for a while, I believe.”

Pink diamonds were once thought to be the consequence of traces of the element Manganese in the crystal structure; now it is believed that a variation in the lattice itself gives them their distinctive and sought-after colour. In 1994, a 19.66-carat pink diamond sold in Geneva for $7.4 million – at the time, a record for a pink stone. Despite being a fraction of the size, the near-perfect nature of the ‘Vivid Pink’ made it one of the most valuable diamonds to go to auction in recent times.

A truly Magnificent Jewel

The sale of the Vivid Pink took place in Hong Kong at Christie’s Fall Sale of Magnificent Jewels. Items sold at the auction totalled $48 million, but the Vivid Pink stood out as the most impressive lot. Vickie Sek of Christie’s Asia said, “$2.1 million per carat is by far the highest price per carat achieved for any diamond worldwide, and, at $10.8 million, the Vivid Pink is the most expensive jewel sold at auction in 2009. Eight out of the 10 most expensive jewels were acquired by discerning Asian private collectors, confirming once again Hong Kong’s position as a major market for the finest gemstones.”

Evening Star diamond sells for $5.4 million

A stunning pear-shaped 39-carat diamond known as the Evening Star has been sold in an auction at Christie’s for $5.4 million. With an estimated value before the sale of between $3.6 and $5.5 million, the final bid indicates that although the price of smaller diamonds remains relatively stable, the market is strong and larger stones are selling at the upper end of their valuation range.

The D-colour diamond, which has been certified to VVS1 clarity, was part of a private ten-piece collection which was sold straight after the New York Jewels Sale on December 10.

Origins of the Evening Star Diamond

The Evening Star takes its name from its former (and unknown) owner’s practice of wearing the stone to galas and evening events. The diamond comes from the Golconda mines, west of Hyderabad in India, which have yielded some of the largest stones in the world. For a time towards the end of the 19th century, ‘Golconda’ became synonymous with any prolific mine or source of exceptional wealth, akin to El Dorado.

Other stones to hail from this mine include the Darya-e Nur (‘Sea of Light’), a 185-carat pale pink diamond which forms the largest of the crown jewels of Iran. Another, the Hope Diamond, is a blue, cushion-cut stone of more than 45 carats.

Bespoke Jewelley Collection

The full collection sold at Christie’s comprised a number of rare items of bespoke jewellery. The owner often displayed the Evening Star as the pendant on a necklace of 68 pear-shaped diamonds, set in platinum. The necklace was sold as a separate item. A pair of matching earrings with pear-shaped stones of 10.21 and 10.51 carats completed the set and sold for $2.1 million. The earring stones and the Evening Star itself are type IIa diamonds, possessing exceptional optical clarity and giving them a soft, luminescent quality.

Art Nouveau jewellery: shock of the new

Clients frequently request bespoke jewellery in a particular historical style. One popular style is Art Nouveau – an influential movement which originated in Paris around the turn of the 20th Century and which enjoyed great popularity in Europe and further afield for a brief but highly significant period of around 15 years.

As a reaction against the more formalised and elitist ‘Academic’ art of the 19th century, Art Nouveau (‘New Art’) encompassed all areas of life, from whole buildings and their interior design down to furniture, utensils and jewellery, as well as paintings, sculptures and other media. Its aim was to make art an everyday part of life and, in line with its egalitarian philosophy, it emphasised design and craftsmanship over the intrinsic value of any materials used.

Materials in Art Nouveau jewellery

For the preceding two centuries, jewellery design had been dominated by precious stones (including diamonds) and their metal settings. The goldsmith was paramount in this era. Art Nouveau designers – perhaps most famously, René Lalique – instead made a feature of the artwork, not only their medium. Semi-precious stones such as amethyst, opal, moonstone, peridot, freshwater (that is, cheap, mass-cultivated) pearls and citrine were popular.

A renewed appreciation for artistry led to new techniques being practised and developed. Enamel was a key material for which a number of processes were refined, including cloisonne and champleve (using gold wire and recessed areas respectively to delineate the boundaries of the enamel). In basse-taille an engraved pattern was covered in transparent enamel, and the plique-a-jour technique was used to create a stained-glass appearance by removing the metal backing after firing.

Non-precious metals and other materials which had previously been little-used in jewellery-making gained prominence, such as copper, ivory, glass, horn, bone and shell.

Art Nouveau jewellery Motifs

A number of themes gained significance in the Art Nouveau movement. An interest in nature – common in the Victorian era – provided one important source of inspiration, with flowers (especially poppies, water lilies and orchids), snakes, dragonflies and butterflies often featured. Under the influence of Asian art, these became stylised and simplified for reproduction in different media. Free-flowing, organic lines and the ‘whiplash’ curve were often used. Both of these tendencies were incorporated into the movement’s spiritual symbolism, with mythical creatures and hybrid animals reflecting fin-de-siècle hope and fantasy. The female form – often with long, flowing hair and combined with nature themes – became increasingly popular as a symbol of decadence and sensuality.

The Fight Against Blood Diamonds

As with all very high-value goods, the trade in diamonds is subject to more than its fair share of abuse. In particular, the high price of diamonds in relation to their size makes them vulnerable to being controlled to finance war and insurgency.

Diamonds that are mined in battle zones and sold to fund such activities are called ‘blood diamonds’ (also known as conflict diamonds, hot diamonds or war diamonds). Due to the continent’s political circumstances and comparative abundance of mines, many of these diamonds originate in Africa.

Origins and certification

The idea of ‘conflict-free diamonds’ gained currency in 1998, when sanctions were put in place against Angola by the United Nations, preventing other countries from purchasing diamonds from them. After gaining independence from Portugal in 1975, Angola was locked in a vicious civil war for 27 years, and the rebels’ insurgency against the government received substantial funding from the illegal diamond trade. The phenomenon was by no means isolated; at the time, estimates suggested that around a fifth of all world diamond production was used to finance conflict. 

Recognising the role that the trade played in funding civil war, the diamond trade itself took further initiatives to limit the problem of blood diamonds. In 2000 a group of delegates from diamond-producing countries met in Kimberley, South Africa, in order to create a process by which the provenance of stones could be verified. The Kimberley Process Certification Scheme, as it became known, aimed to starve the insurgents of funds by strangling their trading networks. (The World Diamond Council was formed in 2001 to address the same aims.)

The Kimberley Process is seriously flawed. One of the major sources of controversy concerns the criteria under which countries are given membership. Because the process is self-certifying and not legally enforceable, there are no criminal sanctions for non-compliance and it is still possible for countries who are members of the scheme to trade conflict diamonds.

Relevant countries

Several countries – many in Africa – have a history of trading blood diamonds, but are now members of the Kimberley process. In the opening years of the 21^st century Liberia was placed under sanctions by the UN for the role that its diamond trade played in funding civil war and terrorism; these have now been lifted. Côte d’Ivoire (also know as Ivory Coast), which was a conduit for Liberia’s illicit diamond trade and suffered its own civil war, remains under sanction. The Democratic Republic of Congo has joined the process despite its civil wars in the 1990s, and is now a major exporter of diamonds. Recently, Zimbabwe has come under scrutiny due to allegations of widespread smuggling and abuse at the Marange diamond fields, despite the fact that these are not technically defined as conflict diamonds.

 

 

 

 

Call For Zimbabwe Diamond Restrictions

Human rights groups are calling for Zimbabwe's access to the diamond trade to be restricted following reports of brutality by government militia. Due to their value and crucial place in the export of natural resources,  mining of diamonds is particularly open to abuse by interested parties.

 

As a result of such issues coming to light around the world, there is a growing market for conflict-free diamonds - stones which have not been mined in countries where there is unrest that affects the trade. In a recent case, soldiers are said to have killed around 200 people and injured many others at a diamond field in Zimbabwe. Prospectors used to use the Marange diamond fields to find and sell precious stones on the black market.

 

However, in recent months troops have taken control of the area in order to fund the ruling Zanu-PF party's activities. On one occasion, helicopters were allegedly used to fire tear gas at workers and shots were fired at them. Local residents are said to be forced to work for the government, collecting diamonds. The government denies the allegations. Some analysts argue that excluding Zimbabwe from the international diamond trade will not help, since diamonds would inevitably be smuggled out of the fields and would still find their way onto the international markets.

 

Rights groups have nevertheless demanded that the Kimberley Process (the group that regulates the trade of rough diamonds) stop all diamond exports from the country. The body was set up in 2003 with the aim of ensuring that consumers were not purchasing stones that are linked to war or abuses of human rights.

Understanding Platinum Jeweller

Platinum's characteristics make it a much sought-after material for bespoke jewellery. Its silvery-white, almost luminous surface make it an attractive choice to look at, and its smooth, silky feel and unexpected weight - platinum is half as dense again as 18 carat gold - make it a pleasure to wear.It is also significantly more expensive than gold. As a result, even the word 'platinum' suggests an air of exclusivity - platinum credit cards and record sales being two popular examples.

A brief history of platinum

Platinum was used decoratively in ancient civilisations such as Egypt and by the Incas. However, it is only in relatively recent times that it has regained its popularity. A comparatively small amount of the metal is mined every year - perhaps a fifteenth of the weight of gold - which adds to its allure. In the 18th century, Louis XVI declared that it was the only precious metal fit for royalty. By the time of the First World War, though, around 90 percent of world platinum supplies were controlled by Russia. Its value was reflected by its use as the frame of the crown created for the coronation of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother as Consort of King George VI in 1937. It was the first British crown to use the material. In World War Two platinum's use for jewellery was restricted because it was considered important to the war effort. As a safe-haven metal like gold, governments could hope for a degree of economic stability if they hoarded it. In between the wars, however, it was used extensively in the Art Deco movement, particularly by jewellers like Cartier and Tiffany.

Scarcity adds to value

Platinum's high cost reflects its scarcity - it is found in just a few locations around the world - and the difficulty involved in extracting and refining the metal, a process that can take five months. Typically, platinum rings contain a higher proportion of the pure metal than gold ones, usually around 95 percent. The metal is stronger and harder than gold, and is therefore more difficult for craftsmen to work with. Despite this property, like gold it can still scratch; the result is the well-known 'patina' that many people actually prefer, but that can easily be removed by polishing to restore the jewellery to its original mirror-like shine. Platinum's pristine white shine can provide an unparalleled setting for a glittering diamond, and it has become a sought-after yet exclusive substitute to gold for custom engagement rings.

Aim High with Hearts and Arrows

Hearts and Arrows is a particular kind of Round Brilliant cut, indicating excellent optical symmetry and an extremely regular, well-executed cut. A Hearts and Arrows cut diamond is typically more expensive, because it reflects a greater degree of time and expertise.

They also entail a slightly higher degree of loss of weight from the rough diamond. The term is often seen in marketing materials, as it suggests a top-tier cut. However, it does not mean the stone will necessarily be more brilliant - or more desirable - than all others.

 

Finding the right angles

A conflict free diamond with a Hearts and Arrows cut has certain features when viewed from directly above and below (a gemstone viewer is usually necessary). Looking down at the crown, a pattern of eight grey arrows is visible, pointing in to the centre. From the pavilion, the pattern is eight hearts, again with their bases pointing towards the middle. The shapes are caused by the way that the configuration of facets blocks the light from certain directions.

These distinctive and highly-prized patterns are only evident when the diamond is cut exactly right. The 'table' - the flat surface at the top of the crown - must be precisely perpendicular, or at right angles, to the pavilion. This perfect optical symmetry allows the light to act in the right way to produce the characteristic patterns. However, the cut does not lead a diamond to sparkle more than other designs. The sparkle is determined more by the individual facets on the diamond, rather than the overall alignment of the major facets.

In fact, because the hearts and arrows appear as dark grey or even black shapes, this kind of diamond may appear to have shadows in it when viewed in certain lights and from certain angles.

Choosing a conflict free diamond

If you are looking for a custom engagement ring, you could be forgiven for thinking that Hearts and Arrows was synonymous with desirability. And it might be, to some people. Others choose a diamond on different grounds, such as for its brilliance - or perhaps will prefer a different cut altogether. After all, this specific pattern is only a feature of the Round Brilliant and, whilst a popular cut, there are many others available and possibly ones that will be subjectively more attractive to you.

It's also worth remembering that there is no absolute standard when it comes to assessing a diamond. Some will have a clear pattern; in other cases, it may be less distinct. Some experts grade the patterns, others do not. And, even when a stone is given the highest grade of cut, the Hearts and Arrows may not be easily visible.

 

The Round Brilliant Cut: A Popular Classic

Raw, uncut diamonds bear little resemblance to the dazzling gemstones seen in engagement rings and other pieces of jewellery. An uncut stone or 'rough diamond' looks a little bit like a chunk of glass you might find on the beach, washed and ground smooth and dull by the sand. Uncut diamonds can be any shape. Transforming them into the item prized by jewellers and engaged couples takes the skill of a master craftsperson. The Round Brilliant is one of the most popular cuts in use today.

Transforming a rough diamond

Turning the more-or-less shapeless chunk of raw diamond into a jewellery-grade gemstone takes both skill and scientific expertise. Not only does the cutter require training and talent with the tools of the trade but, more and more, an understanding of the principles behind a diamond's structure.

The rough diamond can be cut in any number of ways, though in practice there are usually some restrictions. Waste is typically reduced to a minimum by picking the most efficient shape for the raw stone - you could theoretically cut a cubic gemstone from a round rough diamond, but a significant proportion of the weight would be lost. Another important factor is using a cut that accentuates the diamond's natural properties, which vary from stone to stone. The Round Brilliant cut is particularly suited to stones that are broadly octahedral - that is, like two pyramids stuck base-to-base.

The magic number

The Round Brilliant cut was created by Belgian diamond cutter Marcel Tolkowsky in 1919. In its simplest form it consists of 58 facets, or flat surfaces: 33 on the crown, or top half, and 25 on the pavilion, or bottom half. The Round Brilliant is an instantly-recognisable shape, probably one of the first ideas to be conjured up by the word 'diamond' - a relatively shallow top half with a 'table' or eight-sided flat surface, with a bottom half that tapers down to a point or 'culet', an optional small flat circle. Often, extra facets will be added around the 'girdle', or the circumference at the widest point between top and bottom.

Tolkowsky looked carefully at the way that light was reflected within the diamond, but he only considered beams that were reflected once or twice. With modern computer technology, a more complete picture can be built up of the way that light acts within different shapes and cuts of diamonds, as well as other important factors - something that was simply not possible in the early 1900s. In some ways, then, this 'industry standard' is outdated. Although it remains a classic, if you are purchasing a custom engagement ring or other piece of bespoke jewellery, it's a good idea to seek further advice.

 

 

What Gives Diamonds Their Sparkle?

Conflict Free Diamonds are prized for several reasons - they are very hard, making them an important component in cutting technology - and they are intrinsically beautiful. Diamonds sparkle and shine like no other gemstone, which is why they are so prized by bespoke jewellery makers. Manufacturers of fake diamonds try to recreate this characteristic and some come close, but never with complete success. So what makes diamonds sparkle?

 

The science of the sparkle
It turns out that the diamond's sparkle, and therefore beauty, is directly linked to the other property, its hardness. The key phrase here is ‘total internal reflection'. Simply put, it's the way that diamonds manage to bend light within themselves to an extent that other substances do not.

Diamonds' hardness and stability are a result of their structure. Graphite and diamond are both forms of carbon - as is the sooty smoke that rises from a candle. But whereas the graphite in a pencil is soft - otherwise it wouldn't be a very good pencil - diamond is so tough that nothing rubs off. That's not to say it's indestructible: diamonds will burn away to carbon dioxide at high enough temperatures, leaving nothing left. Graphite is effectively made from sheets of carbon atoms, which slide over each other to be left on the sheet of paper in the case of a pencil. But in diamonds, the carbon atoms are all rigidly cross-linked, making for an extremely stable structure.

Shedding light on the process
Why does this make diamonds sparkle? Well, if you've ever wondered where a rainbow comes from, you've got your answer. Light travels at 300,000 km per second in a vacuum. Through air, it's a little slower, and through water and glass, slower still.

Imagine a horizontal line of soldiers marching into the sea. If they march straight into the waves, they will all slow down at the same time. But if they hit the sea at an angle, with one end of the line reaching it first, the line will become bent as some soldiers slow down before others. The same is true of light hitting a droplet of rain at an angle. The light is refracted - bent - which has the effect of scattering its different wavelengths into a spectrum (like heavy soldiers struggling in the waves more than their lighter comrades...). At the correct angle, the light is bent more than once and reflected back off the inside of the droplet (total internal reflection), back towards the source - which is why you only ever see a rainbow with your back to the sun.

Now, imagine the soldiers were marching into something with more resistance, like golden syrup... the line bends even more.

Diamond's hardness bends light more than any other substance, so the effect is more pronounced. Light is scattered more, and total internal reflection occurs more frequently. Add to that some careful cutting, which accentuates the natural glitter, and you have a sparkle of unrivaled brilliance.

 

The Timeless Appeal of Art Deco

Many collectors find Art Deco's simplicity of form and materials highly desirable and consequently valuable - which is an irony when you consider the background from which the movement grew.

A sign of the times

Art Deco originates in the period between the wars, when designers of all kinds embraced simplicity. Coco Chanel, for example, rose to prominence with such elegant and minimalist designs as her skirts - a kind of liberation after an age of corsets and padding, as well as a necessary economy in terms of yardage of fabric.

There was also a growing backlash against the decadence and arrogance that the earlier years of the century had seen, which were epitomised by the tragedy of the Titanic.

At the same time, however, technology was moving forward, catalysed by the war, new materials being invented and new processes developed. The days of hand-crafted bespoke jewellery were by no means over, but mass-production of high-quality jewellery had suddenly placed what were once luxuries in the hands of the masses.

Alongside the restrictions and advances, a new philosophical atmosphere was growing, such as the German Bauhaus movement, which stressed a continuity and lack of barriers between artists and craftsmen. Technical skills grew in importance, until they were valued as much as the materials themselves - which, as time went on, came to include the new plastics and Aluminium (or 'Aluminum', as it was known in the USA). The centre of this new movement was Paris, which has embodied all that is chic and elegant ever since.

Mixing and matching

In terms of its inspiration, Art Deco draws on a wide range of influences. Simplicity was a key part of the movement, hence the emphasis on geometric shapes and clean, sharp, unpretentious lines. Cubism was a natural counterpart to this building block, as was futurism. But it also borrowed bold and ornate elements from the Orient, Ancient Egypt and tribal Africa. René Lalique's iconic glass designs took their inspiration from nature. Indeed, Art Deco could sometimes be extravagant in its audacity, as well as its materials. For all that cheaper materials were used in abundance, gold, precious stones and platinum - a new luxury metal - also featured.

The spirit of the age was doing what you could with what you had. So, whilst some jewellers were still catering to wealthier clients with groundbreaking and expensive designs, others were replicating this success in cheaper materials for the mass-market customer, or adapting it in the form of derivative creations. In the 30s, for example, Cartier created a range of brooches with intricate designs of blackamoor heads on them. These were immediately copied in plastics and cheaper metals across Europe.

This enthusiasm for imitation and even exaggeration led to pieces of jewellery which, from today's perspective, border on the vulgar but are nevertheless beautiful in their own way. Some designers took to creating unwieldy earrings and necklaces in the form of complex geometric configurations, like wearable labyrinths; others took the motifs of flora and fauna to their extremes, with collections of dangling cherries and plastic animals being two common stereotypes. Nevertheless, there is always something entrepreneurial and ingenious about the style that has remained attractive for almost a century and shows no sign of going out of style.

Hallmarks and Trademarks: An Introduction

Examine any item of precious metal carefully, and there's a good chance you will find a series of symbols etched onto it. To the uninitiated, these marks might as well be Greek, but once you know a bit about them, they can tell you a great deal about the item you are holding.

The first thing to remember is that hallmarks and trademarks are not the same thing. Hallmarks guarantee that the metal - generally gold, silver or platinum - is of a certain quality or fineness, determined by metallurgical testing or 'assay'. Trademarks, on the other hand, are a maker's mark - the smith's way of claiming credit for his skills.

Different countries have different systems of hallmarking, determined by law (though some have none). Because it is a legal requirement in the UK, even items of bespoke jewellery will have hallmarks on them, often hidden away on the inside or underside.

A history of hallmarking

There is evidence for rudimentary hallmarking dating back to the early centuries of the first millennium. However, it wasn't until the middle ages that a degree of coherence (and bureaucracy) was brought to the process and local government took an interest in ensuring the quality of metalwork produced within its jurisdiction by means of authorised 'assayers', who would inspect gold and silver goods on behalf of the king before they could be sold.

The first hallmarks as we would understand them originated in France in the 13th century, with England first enacting its own laws in 1300.

Assayers would confirm that an article contained the minimum requirement of pure metal (initially, silver) by marking it with an image of a leopard's head - though precise standards could not be determined due to the limitations of assaying techniques at the time.

As time went on, each goldsmith or silversmith was given responsibility for guaranteeing the quality of all the metalwork that was produced in his workshop, which typically took the form of a set of initials, a coat of arms, or both. The word 'hallmark' derives from Goldsmiths' Hall in London, where the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths had their headquarters.

Maker marks - an early example of corporate logos - were introduced halfway through the 14th century, with a date-letter system following in the 15th century, meaning that any piece could be dated at a glance.

Modern hallmarking systems

Despite the clear advantages of having one unified international set of hallmarking conventions, no overarching standard exists and so it is important to know the originating country of any jewellery or other works of precious metal (signatories of the Vienna Convention may include additional marks, which signify standards of international conformity). In the UK, for example, silver often has four marks on it: a symbol for the originating town, a guarantee of quality, a maker's mark and a date letter.

Full standardisation is unlikely in the short term, because quality control varies so widely (and different countries may be more or less efficient in terms of enforcing these standards). Even the definition of a precious metal is debated; for example, some countries require hallmarks for palladium, whereas others do not.

 

 

The History of Birth Stones

The addition of a birth stone is a great way to personalise a piece of bespoke jewellery. Birth stones are usually associated with months of the year or the signs of the zodiac - which means they are particularly appropriate for birthdays or other special anniversaries - as well as qualities of character. But where did the idea of birthstones originate, and what do they each mean?

Choosing a birth stone

Birth stones are an ancient tradition or, more accurately, collection of traditions that are found in many cultures and religions stretching back over thousands of years.

In that respect, there is no 'definitive' list of which stone should be associated with which month or star sign. However, an international 'industry standard' exists in the form of the National Association of Goldsmith's list of birthstones, which was created in 1937 and is a harmony of ancient and contemporary traditions:

* January - garnet (constancy)

* February - amethyst (sincerity)

* March - aquamarine (courage)

* April - diamond (innocence)

* May - emerald (love)

* June - pearl (health)

* July - ruby (contentment)

* August - peridot (family)

* September - sapphire (presence of mind)

* October - opal (hope)

* November - topaz - faithfulness

* December - turquoise (prosperity)

Ancient birth stone traditions

Arguably the earliest list of birth stones is found in the Old Testament book of Exodus, which details tales dating from around 3,400 years ago. The breast plate of Aaron, the brother of Moses and the high priest, was decorated with 12 different semi-precious stones, representing each of the tribes of Israel.

Although the precise identification of the stones is almost impossible due to problems of translation, many critics believe that this is the origin of the idea of birth stones, and some have suggested that each of the breastplate stones also represented, or later came to be associated with, a month or sign of the zodiac.

In the New Testament book of Revelation, probably written in the early 2nd century, the idea is developed. The 12 foundations of the new city of Jerusalem were decorated with the stones, each of which was given the name of an Apostle. The 12 stones were jasper, sapphire, chalcedony, an emerald, sardonyx, sardius, chrysolyte, beryl, topaz, chrysoprasus, jacinth, and amethyst. At a later period, the stones were linked to a month and different meanings, which were symbolised by the colours of the stones.

Over the years, the idea of birth stones was continued in different cultures - notably Indian, Babylonian and Egyptian - which linked them to particular personal characteristics and even healing properties.

Again, these changed depending on the culture. The custom of actually wearing birth stones is thought to have come about in Poland around the 15th century, and became increasingly popular in Europe in the 18th century.

Birth stones, therefore, can be a thoughtful touch to add to a custom engagement ring, birthday or anniversary present.

 

 

Cleaning Your Engagement Ring at Home

A glittering new engagement ring is more than a piece of jewellery, it represents the commitment of a couple who are looking forward to the rest of their lives together.

Traditionally, the gold band implies loyalty and sacrifice, and the diamond both the beauty and permanence of love. Custom engagement rings might draw in other stones and motifs to make an even more personal statement.

But inevitably, in contrast to the enduring nature of the couple's feelings, the ring may eventually lose a little of its sparkle as the dirt and dust from everyday life take their toll.

The good news is that it’s a fairly simple matter to clean the ring at home, returning it to the way it looked when it was first placed on her finger. It’s important to remember that these methods are only suitable for rings made from platinum or gold (including white gold), with conflict free diamonds, rubies or sapphires – other types of stone may be damaged because they have a different composition. If you are in any doubt, or your ring is a piece of bespoke jewellery with unusual features, talk to a jeweller for advice.

Wipe out dirt in a flash

Start by taking a close look at the ring to check for damage – particularly the setting of the stone, which may have become worn over time. If you find any problems, take it to a jeweller for repair as even careful cleaning could dislodge the stone or make the damage worse. If everything looks right, you can use ordinary household products to clean off any dirt.

If it’s been a while since you’ve cleaned the ring, or if it’s particularly dirty, try soaking it for several hours in a mug of Flash or any similar floor-cleaner. That should take off or at least loosen the worst of the grime. Make sure it’s a non-abrasive type of cleaner, though – gold is comparatively soft and may easily be scratched. After that, run a bowl of hot water.

Lather, rinse, repeat as necessary

Most rings will shine up beautifully with a soft brush and ordinary washing-up liquid. Start by dripping some washing-up liquid directly onto the ring to make sure you work it into and around the claws of the mounting.

It’s important that the brush is very soft; some people use toothbrushes but even these can be too hard on the metal. Try a baby’s toothbrush or very soft paintbrush, and work gently at any dirt. Remember to brush the inside of the ring and the back of the mounting, which should be open.

Then rinse the ring under the tap and repeat the process until all the dirt is gone. If you need to concentrate on particular patches that have worked into details of the mounting, be careful – you don’t want to push the stone out of place or scratch the gold.

If necessary, soak it a while longer in the cleaning solution. When you’re satisfied, dry and shine the ring on a cloth – it needs to be something that won’t shed lint everywhere or you’ll end up with bits of fluff worked into the details instead of dirt. You can buy lint-free cloths at most jewellers.

The result should be a ring that sparkles like it’s new.

 

 

A History of Engagement Rings

Even if a couple haven't yet tied the knot, a diamond ring on the fourth finger of a woman's left hand is a clear statement that she is off-limits to other men, pending the coming marriage. But the conventions weren't always the same; the symbolism behind the tradition of the engagement ring runs deep, and the practice has changed extensively through the centuries.

 

Instead of the precious metal and gemstone combination so popular today, the Romans would mark an engagement with a simple iron ring called the 'anulus pronubus' ('betrothal ring') - iron's durability signifying enduring love and the permanence of the marriage. 

As time went by, these rings were more commonly made from precious metals and grew more ornate, with engraved designs like keys, intertwined hands and other motifs - an ancient form of bespoke jewellery.

Increasingly, the value of a ring was intended to indicate the groom's financial commitment and sacrifice to the bride - in fact, in the ninth century Pope Nicholas stipulated that an engagement ring had to be made of gold, though precious stones were unusual at that time.

In 1477 Archduke Maximillian of Austria brought the diamond engagement ring to worldwide prominence by giving one to his new fiancée, Mary of Burgundy. Like the Romans' iron rings, the diamond's hardness was linked to the idea of undying love, but due to their rarity only the very wealthy could afford them and the idea of diamond engagement rings was slow to catch on until the 19th century, when new mines in South Africa made the stones available to more people.

In the meantime, other adornments such as pearls were used more frequently than they are today, though bespoke engagement rings are still often likely to have opals, emeralds and other gems.

The fourth finger of the left hand is associated with love and marriage in many cultures, partly because the vein in the ring finger (the 'vena amoris' or 'vein of love') was thought to be connected directly to the heart - a belief that originated from earliest times, possibly in Ancient Egypt. In the medieval Christian tradition, at the betrothal ceremony the priest or groom would place the ring on the index and middle finger before the ring finger, saying 'Father, Son and Holy Spirit' as he did so.

However, it wasn't until 1549 that the Book of Common Prayer specified that the ring should be placed on the left hand (though which finger wasn't specified, leading to some flexibility - some people even opted to place it on the thumb).

Even now, in some European cultures - particularly Scandinavia and Eastern Europe - the ring tends to be worn on the fourth finger of the right hand. Occasionally, as in the Greek Orthodox tradition, it even starts on the left hand at engagement and is moved to the right at marriage.

How To Choose a Diamond

Diamonds may well be forever but what exactly should you consider when you are buying a gift intended to last a lifetime?

To the untrained eye, many diamonds of a similar shape and size will look very similar, but the potential differences in quality and value are myriad. It is therefore worth knowing at least the basics before you make what should be one of the most special purchases of your life.

The most important factors to keep in mind are the Four ‘Cs’: Carat, Colour, Clarity and Cut. It is the unique combination of these elements that determines the quality and cost of a diamond.

Carat Weight

Diamonds are traditionally weighed in carats, a carat being equivalent to a fifth of a gram. Because large diamonds are rare, they tend to be disproportionately more valuable – a ten-carat diamond is worth far more than ten one-carat diamonds. A one-carat solitaire (single stone) diamond ring is a traditional engagement gift, though smaller stones are becoming increasingly popular.

Colour (graded D-Z)

Perfectly translucent diamonds are very unusual. These ‘D’ grade stones appear pure white, but most diamonds will have tiny quantities of impurities that give them a slight tinge, down to ‘Z’ grade diamonds, which are severely discoloured. It is a good idea to focus on the E to H range – the difference between E and D is barely noticeable, but you will pay a high premium for it. Below H, stones tend to have a detectable yellow hue.

Clarity (graded IF, VVS1, VVS2, VS1, VS2, SI1, SI2, I1, I2, I3)

The finest diamonds are graded IF (internally flawless) for clarity, meaning that they have no ‘inclusions’ – tiny cracks or pockets of impurities in them. The more inclusions, the lower the stone’s clarity is said to be. As with colour, differences between the highest quality diamonds are subtle, but you should probably avoid anything below SI1 (slightly included, or you will be confronted by plainly visible marks.

Cut

The way a diamond is cut determines how it reflects and refracts the light – in other words, how it sparkles. Cut is arguably the most important of the four ‘Cs’, and one where you really should not accept compromise. Try to opt for a stone that has at least a ‘Very Good’ and ideally an ‘Excellent’ cut grade. ‘Cut’ can also refer to the shape of the diamond – Round Brilliant and Princess being popular examples – but that is more down to personal taste.

At Ingle & Rhode, we make each piece of bespoke jewellery to order, and source the exact conflict free diamond that our client needs to match their requirements.

 

 

 

 

Fair Trade Rubies

We are delighted to announce that Ingle & Rhode can now offer fair trade rubies from Tanzania. These are sourced through Ruby Fair, a company established in 2008 by Pete Brown and Gary Roberts. Their stones are entirely natural, and are not heat-treated or enhanced in any way. We will be holding a selection of these rubies in stock, and will also be able to source specific stones to order for use in pieces of bespoke jewellery.

Key ethical policies govern the operation in Tanzania; no child labour; replacement of top soil and rock soil; fair wages for workers, and a share in bonuses; strict safety procedures; sponsorship of a local children’s home and orphanage; financial contributions to a local hospital; and local cutting and polishing of the rubies.

Ruby is formed from corundum, the same mineral as sapphire. Corundum is colourless in its pure state, but trace impurities such as chrome give ruby its distinctive colour (the word ‘ruby’ derives from the latin word ‘rubens’, meaning ‘red’). On the Mohr’s scale, it has a hardness of nine, second only to diamond. While large rubies can be as expensive as diamonds, small and medium sized stones can be surprisingly affordable. Fair trade rubies can look fantastic set either by themselves, or next to conflict free diamonds.

 

White Gold Or Platinum?

At Ingle & Rhode, we make every piece to order, whether it is one of our classic engagement ring designs, or a unique item of bespoke jewellery. This means that as well as being able to source the exact conflict free diamond to match the client’s requirements, we can also make their jewellery in the metal of their choice. The most common decision that a client faces is the choice between platinum and 18ct white gold. These two metals are superficially quite similar, but there are a few key differences.

1. Density.

Platinum is one and a half times as dense as 18ct white gold, so an engagement ring made of platinum will feel heavier than the same ring made in 18ct white gold.

2. Colour.

The difference is quite subtle. Platinum is a white metal, but it has a faint grey hint to it. 18ct white gold (when coated in rhodium, which it normally is) will have a bright white sheen to it. If the jewellery isn’t coated, then it will have a slightly warmer colour.

3.Wear and Tear.

As platinum gets scuffed up over time, it loses its shine and the hint of grey becomes more obvious. It is a myth that platinum is extremely durable, both platinum and gold will require some maintenance in the long term. With a bespoke platinum engagement ring, a client might want to get it re-polished every year or eighteen months. This process is cheap and easy. In the case of white gold, the rhodium coating will be gradually damaged by contact with the client’s skin, particularly on the inside of an engagement ring, and the natural colour of the white gold will begin to emerge from beneath it. This is a slightly warmer tone. At that point, the client will need to get the engagement ring polished, and have a new rhodium coat applied. This process is also cheap and easy. The two metals will require different types of maintenance, but in neither case is it anything to worry about.

Either metal is suitable for the manufacture of top quality bespoke jewellery, the choice really comes down to personal preference.

 

 

Creating Bespoke Engagement Rings

Some people may view engagement rings as simply a ring of metal, but even the simplest engagement ring is rich in symbolism.  If you want to have an engagement ring that truly represents you, your partner and your relationship, then bespoke engagement rings can provide you a wonderful, customised piece of jewellery.

But where do you start when designing your own engagement ring?  Firstly, take time to window shop to get together ideas and inspiration for your design.  Most women tend to have a good idea as to what type of engagement ring they would like, but you can always find new settings, stone shapes and other beautiful details that you were previously unaware of.  Perhaps you like simple solitaire designs or something more elaborate.

Next, make sure you are familiar with jewellery standards of quality such as diamond carats, diamond cuts, colour and clarity. If you are looking for something other than diamond rings look into standards for that particular gem.

Most custom engagement rings have one stone at its centrepiece.  You need to decide what type of stone you would like. Bear in mind that the size, quality and shape will affect the design.  You may already have a stone from an antique or heirloom you want to use, or you can source loose stones from jewellers who specialise in bespoke jewellery.

With the stone chosen you can start the rest of the design by looking at metals, the type of settings and any accent stones. For exquisite custom engagement rings and expert advice speak to us at Ingle and Rhode.

Symbolism in Engagement Rings

The symbolism of engagement rings goes back centuries, with the most basic symbol being that of a ring of metal representing simple, symbolic geometry.  There is no beginning and no end to a circle so the ring represents eternity, wholeness, perfection and renewal.  The ring also represents the planets, moon and the sun, a celebration of life and the binding of two people.  Today, people are taking this ancient art of symbolism further by commissioning custom engagement rings to engender their own personal meanings.

The most widely known is the Celtic engagement ring which is synonymous with ethic tradition, family generation and heavy symbolism.  Antique rings have been passed down from generation to generation to ensure family traditions are not lost.  Bespoke engagement rings often combine unique elements to express a couple’s individual personalities and styles.

One way that couples incorporate their own personal symbolism is to use birthstones in the engagement ring.  Here, stones can be used to embody the bride and groom of meaningful dates within the relationship, for example, their first kiss or first meeting.

Engagement rings that have three stones are rich in personal symbolism.  Each stone marks a different stage in a relationship – the past, the present and the future.  There are a wide variety of shapes available with princess and emerald cuts being most popular.

Another way to create custom engagement rings is use engraving.  Some cultures prefer not to engrave as symbolically it weakens the metal whilst other cultures believe it adds individualism and intimacy.
For more ideas on how you can create your own bespoke engagement ring contact us at Ingle and Rhode.

The Ethical Wedding Guest

As the costs of weddings rocket there are more couples questioning the cost not only to their pockets but also to the planet.  There is a steady increase in wedding websites and magazines devoting space to ethical and environmental issues such as ethical jewellery and minimising the carbon footprint of your honeymoon.

If you’re doing your share of caring for the environment having bought an engagement ring with ethical diamonds and asking guests to reply to their invitations by email, you may be wondering what else can be done.

Here are some tips for encouraging your wedding entourage to help you support your ethical ideals:

Getting to the Wedding

Depending on how far away the venue is you can always car share if there are several of you going.  Alternatively hire a minibus to get there.  If the wedding is somewhere new to you why not stay for the weekend and see the sights.  That way you are supporting the local economy.

Buying a Gift

When it comes to ethical giving you’ll be spoilt for choice.  There are so many stunning and unique fair-trade or environmentally friendly gifts.  You can really make a difference to some of the globe’s poorest communities by buying this type of gift.

At Ingle and Rhode, we source all of our diamonds and have only the most reputable suppliers to ensure that all of our jewellery is conflict free. If you are looking for ethical jewellery then at Ingle and Rhode we can offer you a wide choice of high-quality ethical jewellery for every occasion.

 

 

Use Jewellery to Revitalise Your Look

In the credit crunch, updating your image can sometimes go on a back burner as we cut back on treats and indulgences.  However, when it comes to looking great and revitalising old and tired outfits, new jewellery is a wonderful way to use accessories to create a new look.

When buying jewellery, it is wise to select a style that can be adapted so the piece can be used with a variety of outfits.  Alternatively, you may choose a piece of jewellery that makes a statement on its own and therefore needs a subtle canvas in order to work best.

When looking at jewellery suppliers beware that most will select the type of jewellery that reflects their ideals and values.  Ethical diamonds can be found at certain jewellers so do your research before you buy.  
Always investigate the origin of the pieces.  Make sure they have been sourced from ethically run mines and factories.  A beautiful ring will soon lose its charm if you find ethical diamonds have not been used. 

Reputable suppliers will also do quality checks at the source and throughout their distribution network ensuring that you get the highest quality piece of jewellery.   As the autumn season sets in you can afford to go for something sparkly and decadent.  Look out for stunning statement pieces such as chandelier earrings and bib necklaces to complement your Christmas look.

If you are looking for something completely different, think about commissioning some bespoke jewellery - bespoke engagement rings are unique and designed especially for you.
For an outstanding collection of bespoke and ethical jewellery, visit us at Ingle and Rhode.

 

 

Are Diamonds a Girl’s Best Friend?

You know the saying, ‘Diamonds are a girl’s best friend’, but if you are trying to maintain an ethical wedding, the choosing of your wedding jewellery can be fraught with complications. On the market there are many so called ‘blood diamonds’ or ‘conflict diamonds’ available. Finding ethical jewellery is the best way to avoid inadvertently supporting this trade.

Although there have been moves made to wipe out the trade of conflict diamonds, they are still very wide spread. The definition published by the United Nations is as follows:
‘…diamonds that originate from areas controlled by forces or factions opposed to legitimate and internationally recognised governments, and are used to fund military action in opposition to those governments, are in contravention of the decisions of the Security Council.’

In 2002 the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme was launched.  It aims to wipe out the trade in these diamonds, but participation in the scheme is voluntary and not all mines have conformed.  They are also not monitored leaving the scheme open to abuse.  It is a long road to find a complete solution - but all is not lost.

There are suppliers of ethical diamonds out there who are dedicated to supporting the ethical factors of their jewellery. However it is also down to the consumers to demand that their jewellery and engagement rings are made with ethical diamonds.  Many customers may be blissfully unaware of the issues surrounding diamond mining, and it is only with increased exposure that the ethics of this industry will be fully appreciated by all consumers.

If you are looking for beautiful, ethical jewellery then speak to us at Ingle and Rhode.

The principles of ethical jewellery

Women and many men love beautiful jewellery, and none more so than jewellery created from precious metals and diamonds. Humans, unfortunately, are not always ethical and do not deal fairly with others.

That is why there are diamonds called conflict diamonds on the market. Conflict diamonds are mined unethically and the revenue from these diamonds are used to further the greed, strife and conflict of man.

Many mining operations around the world are also not conducting the best mining practises, which leads to exploitation of people and damage to the environment. Many consumers today have come to understand the unethical practices in the jewellery industry, and are asking for ethical jewellery - or fair trade jewellery as it is also known.

Principles

It is very important for us that all our clients understand that we only deal in ethical jewellery, thus we have incorporated a policy of complete transparency. We only use materials of which the original has been traced back to the source and we only deal work with fair production price producers. We form direct relations with the many producers so that any chances of exploitation are eliminated.

We only deal in certified diamonds to give our clients peace of mind that no diamond purchased from us will ever be a conflict diamond. What we offer our clients in every piece of jewellery we offer is the opportunity to own ethical jewellery that is also beautiful.

We combine the skills of a master goldsmith and designer with ethically produced materials to create jewellery that all our clients can wear with pride for its beauty and its peace of mind.

The Origins of Bespoke Jewellery

Since prehistoric times, people have adorned themselves with uniquely individual jewellery. But bespoke jewellery as we now understand it really stems from the nineteenth century. This period witnessed the rise of the European ‘Grands Joailliers’, notably Cartier, Boucheron and Van Cleef and Arpels. On the other side of the Atlantic, their success was matched by now-legendary brands like Tiffany and Harry Winston.These companies became synonymous with luxury, and with the idea that they could make for their clients more or less any piece of jewellery that they might want.

Custom made jewellery became fashionable amongst the wealthy, and some stunning commissions were the result. In 1905, Tiffany created a ‘peacock necklace’, now in the Charles Hosmer Museum of American Art. Its design relied on cabochon-cut gemstones and polychrome enamelling, and resembled and Indian ‘dauni’ or headpiece. In 1901, Queen Alexandra ordered Pierre Cartier to remove various Indian gems from the royal collection in London, and to use them to create a bespoke necklace. The finished piece used ninety-four cabochon emeralds, seventy-one pearls and twelve cabochon rubies. Queen Alexandra was said to be delighted with her new piece of bespoke jewellery. Three years later, she commissioned Cartier to make another piece, this time a ‘collier resille’, or hair net. It contained over a thousand stones, weighing a total of more than one hundred and forty carats, all of them taken from dismantled Indian necklaces.

Ethical diamonds give peace of mind

People speak of ethics very easily and all claim to deal ethically with others in their daily lives. If this was really the case, there wouldn’t today be diamonds commonly referred to as conflict diamonds. The market for conflict diamonds would immediately collapse if consumers refuse to buy a single diamond that was mined in unethical ways. Alas, humans too often only speak ethics, but do not demonstrate it in their own lives.

This has given rise to people no longer being satisfied when a sales person in a jewellery store tells them that the diamond jewellery they are buying is all above board. That is why it is highly important for us to make sure that each of our clients have the full assurance that we only deal in ethical diamonds. It is our policy to only purchase diamonds that have been mined in a responsible manner that have not contributed to environmental damage or human exploitation.

Client guarantees

Today, it is the right of any client to know that he or she is only purchasing ethical diamonds. In the general jewellery industry it is virtually impossible to know where the metals and diamonds come from that they use as they will have changed hands many times.

That is why we put the effort in to only use reputable sources and that we completely trace our diamonds to their origin. We also make use of only producers of fair trade gold. Doing business in this manner ensures our clients that the diamonds in our jewellery are ethical diamonds and they can wear the jewellery with complete peace of mind.

Choosing bespoke rings

When a man chooses an engagement ring for his lady, it is the physical sign of commitment, affection and love for the women they wish to spend the rest of their lives with. A diamond ring is traditionally seen as the ultimate choice when it comes to engagements. For the man that wants to go a step further, the choice of bespoke engagement rings adds uniqueness to this very special event.

Often men want to keep the final creation of bespoke engagement rings as a surprise to make it even more meaningful. In such cases there are a few basic things the man will have to do to keep things a surprise.

Get the perfect ideas of what the lady in question wants in regard to style and design. Definitely make notes. This will be greatly helpful when discussing bespoke engagement rings with the designers. Once you have the basic ideas of what your lady prefers, you can come to us and we will guide and advise you further.

How to choose

When it comes to bespoke engagement rings, the stones and metals must be chosen to suit the personalities of the women that will be wearing the rings. Make sure that you know whether she prefers white gold, yellow gold or platinum as this is crucial. When it comes to the choice of stones, choose the style that suits her well and remember to match the overall size of the bespoke engagement ring to her hand so that it looks balanced.

Once you have clarity on all these aspects, our designer will sit down with you and between the two of you, the design for the perfect bespoke engagement ring will be born. Your lady will always know that you have gone that extra mile to have a ring created uniquely for her.

Bespoke means one of a kind

We live in an instant society where franchises serve the same food across different continents. The clothes we buy, even with brand labels, simply means that you are wearing clothes that a certain group will also be wearing. The cars we buy, the appliances we use in our homes all form part of the uniformity of mass production. No matter where you go, there will be other people doing the same thing, eating the same thing and wearing the same thing.

What does this mean when it comes to choosing bespoke engagement rings? The rings that women will wear for the rest of their lives? It means that no matter the beauty of the rings or the exclusiveness of the design, there will be other women wearing the same rings.

This could be a rather depressing and negative way to look at things - if it were not for bespoke engagement rings. Having bespoke engagement rings made is a personal choice that gives couples an extra closeness. It means they bring their own creativity into the design as well as personal preferences. They take time and care instead of settling for a ready-made ring.

Perfect solution

When couples come to us for bespoke engagement rings, we work with them to create rings that are truly unique. We combine their design ideas with precious metals and diamonds that our master goldsmith then turns into a masterpiece that becomes one of a kind.

In a world where too many people have to settle for having the same things, bespoke engagement rings set the wearers apart and make them feel uniquely different.

 

Uniquely custom made

Engagement rings are always a topic for much debate as people have their own views on what metal, style, stone and design is the most suitable. The only people that should have a say in the choice of an engagement ring is the couple involved. Many couples today prefer to have custom engagement rings made instead of choosing ready-made rings on offer from jewellers.

There are many reasons why couples prefer to have a ring designed and made to their preferences. When you come to us for bespoke engagement rings we can work from a sketch or photo, and our designer will craft to your preferences.

From there, the design will be done, checked and finally the ring will be created by our master goldsmith. When couples come to us for bespoke engagement rings, they are part of the design process throughout.

Personal reasons

Often women love vintage styles, but they do not wish to have a ring that someone else has worn. The solution is to come to us to create a custom engagement ring to exactly match the vintage style you want. Another reason couples opt for custom engagement rings is because they can combine styles and details from rings they like, but cannot find ready-made in the combinations of their choice.

With custom engagement rings the designer will advise you if your preferences are viable or if it would create a ring that would be unsuitable to wear. What stands fast is the fact that custom engagement rings are unique. As such, the women wearing them feel valued and as unique as the rings on their fingers.

Help with getting engaged

Sometimes the big decisions can seem daunting. This can be particularly true if the decision involves making a considerable investment, such as getting married or having children.

When a client has made that decision to get engaged, they need to know that they are working with people who take their proposal as seriously as they do – people who understand that getting the ring right is absolutely critical.  

At Ingle & Rhode we take the utmost care to ensure that the proposal goes smoothly. By providing clients with top-class design options and the finest precious stones to choose from, we aim to make the experience as pleasurable as possible.

Our service

Here at Ingle & Rhode, we specialise in custom engagement rings and wedding rings. Clients can choose from our e-boutique, or have a ring custom made. Our e-boutique has a range of classic rings, which reflect modern trends, as well as more traditional styles.

Should a client wish to have custom engagement rings designed then we have a department for the design and manufacture of bespoke engagement rings.

If visiting our studios in London (by appointment only) is not convenient, we can assist a client online too. Our design department utilises computer aided design software (CAD) to create any design the client might choose.

The more information the client can provide us with at the start of the process, the quicker we will be able to perfect the design. We are very happy to advise a first concept if a client struggling to define their ideas.

Our designers have won some of the most prestigious awards in the jewellery industry.

Ethical jewellery – it’s more than just a ring

When a client makes the decision to get engaged and decides to have a bespoke engagement ring created, we believe we can offer them the finest service.

Here at Ingle & Rhode, we specialise in the design and manufacture of custom engagement rings and wedding rings and have a team that includes award-winning designers waiting to help you create a suitable design. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and our bespoke engagement rings receive countless compliments.

Lighting the torch further

We believe in that getting engaged is a special moment, and for that reason we only use materials that conform to our ethical policy. None of the jewellery we make is tarnished by a background of exploitation or environmental damage.

Our ethical policy at Ingle & Rhode is simple; we only use gold, silver, platinum and diamonds that are fully traceable and come from ethical sources. In other words we do not source these items from mines or areas that exploit the miners or the environment.

We go further as well; we are committed to donating 10% of our net profit to help the communities involved in the mining to develop and progress. Whether it is set in a bespoke engagement ring, or any other piece of ethical jewellery, each ethical diamond that we source is accompanied by a certificate of origin. The gold, silver and platinum we purchase are mined without use of chemicals that cause damage to the environment, notably mercury and cyanide.

We see clients by appointment at our studios in London, and would request that they call ahead to make an appointment.

A look at how we create

Making bespoke engagement rings is a process that starts with the design. We are proud to say we work with award winning jewellery designers on our team, designers who have achieved the pinnacle of success in the jewellery industry.

Our client will have liaised with our team and to develop a design. They will have seen the finished design we have created using the latest CAD technology. This process will have taken approximately 2 weeks. They may have visited us by appointment to see how their bespoke engagement rings are coming along.

The manufacturing process

It is worth knowing that if a client chooses 18 carat gold, it will be 75% pure. This is because gold is a very soft metal, and it needs to be mixed with an alloy to make it more durable.

We use only ethical diamonds, sourced from producers who maintain the highest environmental and social standards. These diamonds are chosen for their clarity, cut and colour and of course their weight, which is known as the carat. One carat is equal to one fifth of a gram.

Our goldsmith will cast the client’s ring, and when he is satisfied with the quality, the ring will be hallmarked at the London assay office. Only then will our setter work on the chosen ethical diamonds, before the ring is polished and then boxed for presentation to the client.

Our standards - the client’s choice

Buying bespoke engagement rings is the opportunity to make a statement of love by creating a piece of truly ethical jewellery.

With so much riding on the popping of the question‚ it’s important that the ring stands on its own merit too. We might not be able to promise our client’s lovely weather or a romantic restaurant, but we are sure that we can show them a choice of diamond engagement rings that will get their pulse racing with excitement.

Here at Ingle & Rhode, we are well known for our bespoke engagement rings, ethical diamonds and other stones we use in their creations.

We are proud to have received acclaim and approval from the likes of Vogue, among others, for our contribution to the ethically created jewellery industry.

But we do much more

We offer a wide range of ethical jewellery products, all created in the same ethical way.

Our classic cuff-links are the perfect gift for the man who is difficult to buy presents for. These will be treasured always and will indeed stand the test of time.

Only the finest stones are used in our pendants. We offer both classic and modern designs. The common denominators are simplicity, style and quality.

In assisting our clients, we are able to work to their budget. They will need to give us an indication of just how much they want to invest in a piece of jewellery, and we will work within their parameters to create something really special to match their requirements.

Visit us for a personal experience

Buying diamond jewellery isn’t usually something that people do lightly, and nor should it be. After all the client is placing their trust in us, and investing in something which can last a lifetime‚ or longer. All good things do start with an idea.

Whether it’s a custom engagement ring or any other piece of bespoke jewellery that the client requires, they still need to feel comfortable with the company they are dealing with.

We are unique in our approach to jewellery, and that is something that is reflected in the awards presented to a number of the designers we work with.

What’s different?

Firstly, we only source our stones from approved ethical sources. That means we will only purchase diamonds and precious stones from companies that adhere to a code of conduct regarding their workers.

All of our diamonds are ethical diamonds, which means that they have been mined in approved areas. So diamonds or any other precious stones from certain countries will not be purchased as they are known to come with some ethical ambiguity. Diamonds miners that use child labour are also taboo. Thus all our jewellery is considered ethical jewellery.

We will not purchase gold, platinum, or silver from mines that contaminate the environment with chemicals. All these things go together to make Ingle & Rhode unique in the world of jewellery.

Moreover, our design team include award winners in the jewellery industry. They use the latest in innovation and technology to help realise the ideas of our clients. Our service is highly personal, because we treat every customer as an individual and we listen to what they really want.

Zimbabwe warned over conflict diamonds

The KP -- an international diamond certification scheme --- recently concluded a fact finding mission on the 16 000 hectare Chiadzwa diamond fields that were discovered at the height of Zimbabwe's economic and political crisis and its findings put pressure on the coalition government to speed up its reforms.

Desperate villagers and diamond dealers descended on the fields controlled by the Zimbabwe Mining Development Corporation (ZMDC) sometime last year where they were involved in illegal mining activities.

Human rights groups say President Robert Mugabe's Zanu PF party and the Reserve Bank of Zimbabwe were the major players in the illegal trade in the precious stones.

According to an interim report by a KP fact-finding mission led by Liberian Deputy Minister of Planning and Development, Mr Kpandel Fayia, the involvement of Zimbabwe's army and the police at one of the biggest diamond fields fuelled serious human rights violations and smuggling.

In a report dismissed by the government as false, the United States based Human Rights Watch (HRW) said more than 200 people were killed last year after Mr Mugabe's previous government deployed soldiers to curb illegal mining and smuggling of diamonds.

The KP dispatched its team last week following sustained allegations that loyalists of Mr Mugabe and his military backers were perpetrating or tolerating human rights abuses and illegal diamond exports.

The team also visited three other diamond mines but their report said the Chiadzwa fields were of major concern.

Zimbabwe was also found wanting on its border controls and security around diamond mining areas. The team said they ought to be stricter border controls to prevent smuggling.

"In the meantime, as a means of facilitating our overall conclusions, we would invite and encourage immediate, positive steps in the coming two to three weeks that would indicate a commitment to compliance by Zimbabwe, reads part of the report.

"For example, the immediate demilitarisation of the Marange fields. There cannot be effective security where diamonds are concerned with the involvement of the military."

 The team said it would release its final report within a month.

Deputy Mining and Development Minister Mr Murisi Zwizwai said the soldiers would be withdrawn in phases while modalities of putting proper security were being worked out.

"There is a lot to be done on the side of this country. We agreed to remove soldiers but it will be done in phases while proper security settings would be put in place," he told state media after receiving the interim report.

Last week, Mr Zwizwai was publicly criticised by his party after he dismissed reports that victims of the massive army clampdown on the illegal miners were buried in mass graves.

It is estimated that if properly mined diamonds can rake in US$200 million for Zimbabwe's cash strapped government.

But if the government fails to meet the KP teams recommendations, the country's diamonds might be blacklisted and this would affect their value on the world market.

New bespoke jewellery brochure

In response to the strong demand for our bespoke jewellery service, and in particular our custom made engagement rings, we have produced a new brochure which describes the details of our bespoke jewellery service to potential clients. To download a copy of the new brochure, please visit our bespoke jewellery page. 

Survival targets Graff Diamonds

Human rights group Survival International held a protest last week outside Graff Diamonds flagship London store, to demand that Laurence Graff pulls out of a controversial diamond mine planned on the land of the Kalahari Bushmen in Botswana.

Survival also wrote to celebrities who wear Graff diamonds, including Victoria Beckham, Naomi Campbell and Elizabeth Hurley, asking them to stop wearing the jewels, and is targeting the Oscars to prevent celebrities wearing Graff diamonds.

Rival diamond company De Beers pulled out of the Kalahari reserve after models Iman and Lily Cole refused to continue working with the company.

Laurence Graff owns a 9% share in Gem Diamonds, which plans to mine on the Bushmen's land. According to Survival International, the Bushmen face severe water shortages, and one has died of thirst, since the government closed their borehole. Yet the Botswana government, which is in the process of approving Gem's mine, has said that the Bushmen will not be allowed to use any water boreholes drilled for the mine.

Gem Diamonds claims that the Bushmen are in favour of the mine, but the Bushmen have had no independent advice on its probable impact.

The Botswana government evicted the Bushmen from their land in 2002; many believe this was to make way for future diamond mining. The Botswana High Court affirmed in 2006 the Bushmen's rights to live on their land, but the government has tried to prevent them from returning by denying them water and hunting rights. Many Bushmen remain in government resettlement camps, unable to go home.

Survival's director Stephen Corry said "Having watched the storm of negative publicity surrounding De Beers, Graff should have known better than to buy into this mine. Does it really want to be known as the company that mined its diamonds while the Bushmen died of thirst?"

Illegal Mining Crisiss

A recent report from Reuters suggests that the soaring price of gold has led to a highly dangerous rise in illegal mining.

Gold prices have trebled over the last five years. As a result, mining corporations have found it worth moving into remote and sometimes unstable parts of the world. Sometimes, this leads to them encroaching onto the territory of artisanal miners, while other times local people are attracted into an area by the activity of the big company.

"Companies have realised this is their biggest social problem ... and it is growing all the time ... there are mines that are getting 6,000 people (illegal miners) on their sites a week," said Kevin D'Souza, mining engineer and technical director at the consultancy Wardell Armstrong.

The result can be violent confrontations between mine security and illegal miners. Moreover, since illegal mining is unregulated, it is often carried out in extremely dangerous conditions – fatalities are not uncommon.

At least six illegal miners, aged between 14 and 20, died at AngloGold Ashanti's Obuasi mine in Ghana in the last month, officials have said.

In the long run, the solution will have to come through land sharing programmes in conjunction with regulation of small-scale miners. But how exactly this will be implemented is far from clear.

Change of Location

We are pleased to announce that Ingle & Rhode will be moving into new offices just off Bond Street. From the 30th of July, our address will be 35 Bruton Street, London, W1J 6QY. We will continue to see clients by appointment – please call or email us for a reservation.

11 Ridiculous Gold and Diamond Accessories

At a time when the jewellery industry is troubled by serious ethical problems, there seems to be no limit to some consumers’ appetite for bling. More and more designers use precious stones and metals to add a sense of luxury to what used to look like sensible, everyday items.

 iPod

The iDiamond iPod was made recently by Norwegian Jeweller Thomas Heyerdahl and consists of a modified iPod Shuffle with matching headphones. The iPod itself is home to 312 diamonds, the headphones holding another 118 and underneath those stones lies a casing made of 18 carat gold. The estimated value of this suped up MP3 player? US$41,000. More Information Here

Cellphone

The solid white-gold, diamond-studded phone on the left is apparently the world’s most expensive with a pricetag of US$1,300,000. The deal clincher? It comes with a 2GB memory card so you won’t need to splash any more cash for storage space. If you’ve forgotten your wallet and only have US$25,000 in your back pocket, the phone on the right could be yours. More Information Here

Television

When released back in 2006, Keymat Industrie claimed this dispicably extravagant television to be the most expensive LCD TV on earth. This wasn’t due to incredible technology but the 160 diamonds attached to its gold plated frame, all of which boosted the gadget’s value to US$130,000. More Information Here

Laptop

On the left is a 24 carat gold plated Macbook Pro, the Apple logo encrusted with diamonds. If this kind of laptop modification is up your alley and you have at least a few thousand dollars to spare, head on over to Computer Choppers, a company dedicated to beautifying the most plain of gadgets. There is no listed price for the Gold Macbook, but you can be sure that with the insurance on top it’s going to burn a hole in your possibly diamond-lined pocket. More Information Here

Computer Mouse

It’s a mouse. It’s home to 59 diamonds. It’s US$24,180.

The website claims it to be ‘the perfect gift for a 60th Wedding Anniversary’ but it doesn’t say whose wedding anniversary. Obviously the mouse is also cast from 18 carat white gold. More Information Here

Purse

The next time your wife asks for a handbag for Christmas, just be grateful she hasn’t seen the one above. It was made by ‘Superstar Jeweller’ Ginza Tanaka, is fashioned from pure platinum, is adorned with 2,182 diamonds totalling 208 carats and will set you back a wallet-obliterating US$1.63 million. Just for the record, Ginza is the man responsible for creating a US$850,000 Christmas tree made from 28kg of gold in 2006. More Information Here

Wheel Rims

You know how annoying it is when your wheel rims get covered in dirt after a long drive? Now imagine each of those rims cost US$250,000 and the pain should be multiplied by a few thousand. Rim-manufacturers Asanti are apparently the only company to offer this kind of service and presumably they aren’t swamped with enquiries from serious buyers. Their Diamond range rims each contain 12,000 diamonds and 800 sapphires, hopefully glued on excessively. More Information Here

Gearstick

So you’ve got the diamond rims and some spare change…

It now makes complete sense to start on the interior, and why not go for the ‘Most Expensive Bentley Shift Knob’ in history? Handcrafted with 30 carats of diamond set on 18 carat white gold, the knob is yours for US$150,000. As the website points out, ‘For all you Ballers out there…”What is your braggin’ right?” Wow. More Information Here

Lavatory

This sparkling lavatory, part of Jemal Wright’s Isis collection, could be yours for just US$75,000. Before you rush for your credit card details though: they aren’t diamonds deliciously wrapped around the cistern but 50,000 Swarovski Crystals. Maybe a diamond-studded lavatory would’ve looked silly. More Information Here

Child’s Dummy / Pacifier

This little item is truly remarkable. It’s a dummy/pacifier, made from 14 carat white gold and finished off with 278 pave cut white diamonds. If you really want to spend the required US$17,000.00 for diamonds, is your child’s mouth really the best place to put them? From the website: ‘We don’t recommend actual use’. Useful. More Information Here

Hearing Aid

With a retail value of US$42,590, this horrendous addition to any hearing-impaired person’s wishlist is cast in solid 24 carat gold, additional sparkle coming in the form of 220 diamonds. What’s more disturbing than the earpiece itself is the discreet remote control, emblazoned with a diamond-encrusted company logo larger than a normal person’s entire head. More Information Here

The World’s Most Famous Engagement Rings

It is more than five centuries since Archduke Maximilian I of Austria gave the first recorded diamond engagement ring to Mary of Burgundy, and since then rich and famous men have indulged their fiancés with some quite incredible gifts.

It’s ironic that perhaps the most famous ‘engagement ring’ in history may not actually have commemorated an engagement at all. There has been a deluge of speculation recently about the ring given by Dodi Fayed to Princess Diana. Though Mohammed Al-Fayed insists that the ring proves that Diana had agreed to marry his son, sources close to the Princess claim it was merely a ‘friendship ring’.

Princess Diana’s ‘other’ engagement ring, given to her by Prince Charles, caused a stir at the time. This was made not with a classic central diamond, but with an eighteen-carat blue oval sapphire, circled by fourteen diamonds. Twenty years later, Prince Charles would buy another amazing engagement ring, an art deco antique-style platinum emerald ring with baguette diamonds, which he presented to Camilla Parker Bowles.

Prince Charles’s mother, Queen Elizabeth II, was given an engagement ring by Prince Phillip made out of diamonds from Phillip’s mother's tiara. When Prince Rainier of Monaco proposed to Grace Kelly, he presented her with a twelve-carat emerald-cut diamond.

Hollywood royalty have also traditionally bought lavish and extravagant engagement rings. When Elvis Presley proposed to his girlfriend Priscilla, the central diamond in her ring weighed three

Michael Douglas marked his engagement to Catherine Zeta-Jones' with a ten-carat antique marquise diamond, valued at nearly one million pounds, while Ben Affleck bought Jennifer Lopez a six-carat radiant cut pink diamond. However, both were smaller than the fifteen-carat diamond given to Paris Hilton by her billionaire boyfriend Paris Latsis. And as if one ring wasn’t enough, he also handed her a twenty-four carat canary diamond.

Beautiful Coloured Diamonds Now On Display

London’s Natural History Museum is currently showing some of nature’s rarest treasures, including gems, crystals, and metals. Amongst them is ‘The Aurora Collection’, two hundred and ninety-six naturally coloured diamonds

Only one in every ten thousand gem-quality diamonds is coloured. The colour comes from tiny impurities in the stone’s carbon lattice, or from minute defects in its structure.

“Each coloured diamond tells its own story, giving us insight not only into its formation but also to the deep Earth processes that took place when the gem was formed,” says Alan Hart, minerals expert at the Museum.

“For example, yellow diamonds are due to the presence of nitrogen in the structure, and green diamonds owe their colour to natural radiation damage. It's an amazing opportunity to be able to display this unique collection of exceptionally rare gems at the Museum.”

Due to their scarcity, coloured diamonds can be worth astronomical amounts. Five or six figure prices are not unusual. Red stones tend to be the most expensive. There are less than twenty certified red diamonds in existence, and some of these have fetched over a million dollars per carat.

Good As Green Gold

Recently ‘Ingle & Rhode’ visited several alluvial mines in the Jujuy province of Argentina – that’s up north, close to the high Andes at 12,000 feet and light years away from the glamour of a fine jewellery showroom.  This was a chance to talk to the miners directly, share their lives briefly, and meet members of the EcoAndina foundation – a United Nations and NGO-funded mining operation which uses the ‘green gold’ trade to fund sustainable villages and support the local communities of the Puna plateau.

In the village of Misa Rumi (a dusty collection of houses, a church and a dirt football pitch) 'Ingle & Rhode' met Santo Martinez, 48, and his son Julian, 26. They had come to sell their gold to the EcoAndina Foundation.Santo and Julian work as a family group and split the proceeds. They know all about the value of their gold and have the option of selling to various traders, but they said they prefer to deal with EcoAndina. This is not just because they get a good price, it’s also due to the foundation's involvement in several projects that are essential to the survival of their village.
The village just about exists. Llamas and goats are important; jobs pretty non existent; government social security is only £30 per family per month, so the cash from gold is important to keep the village viable.  EcoAndina are also involved in providing solar power, and environmentally friendly agriculture - sustainable villages are their aim, not desolation and the human tragedy you see every night in the doorways of Buenos Aires.
And so to the mines … These are a hike away in the bottom of a dried up gorge. The Martinez family workings are in a patch of river bed 6 yards wide by 30 long.  At the gold-bearing layer the dirt looks pretty unconvincing - typical river deposits, rounded stones, grit and dirt.  But a couple of shovel loads fill the pan, next they dip it in the water and start ‘gold panning’.  First the stones are separated, then the lighter material is removed until after about ten minutes they are left with a little bit of mud in the bottom of the pan and perhaps … perhaps a tiny nugget of alluvial gold.
Large scale gold mining means stripping the land, crushing the ore, leaching out the gold with cyanide or mercury, and leaving behind poisoned and contaminated spoil.  But all along the gorge at Misa Rumi ‘Ingle & Rhode’ met small scale miners like the Martinez’s – proud self-employed groups of men, washing out their gold, providing for their families and their communities.
Which gold would you prefer on your finger?

 

[PICTURED: I&R representative Ian Stoker meets the miners of Misa Rumi]

 

Luxury Brands Failing On Ethics, Says WWF Report

Of ten high-end brands surveyed in this week’s ‘Deeper Luxury’ report by the WWF, none scores higher than C+ for ethics. Singled out for special criticism are Italian jeweller Bulgari, and the accessory company Tod’s, endorsed by Sienna Miller.
Companies are graded for their “environmental, social and governance performance and reputation.” The grades are based on data from the analysts Ethical Investment Research Service (EIRIS), which uses company reports followed up with questionnaires, and from Covalence, a company that tracks brand perception through news reports.
The report will make ugly reading for Sienna Miller, who in the past has been quick to identify herself with environmental issues. It warns that Tod's could be "a liability" to her reputation - according to WWF-UK senior policy adviser and report co-author Anthony Kleanthous:
“The world of celebrity leads by example and generates an aspirational desire for branded products. These stars have the responsibility to make sure that the brands they are endorsing are not damaging the planet.”
Within the jewellery industry, the report highlights the ongoing issues around conflict diamonds and dirty gold. It refers to a recent UK survey by Amnesty in which three quarters of retailers admitted to having no auditing process in place to combat the trade in conflict diamonds, and to which nearly a third failed to respond in spite of repeated requests.
The report also focuses on the environmental damage that often results from gold mining. It praises the ‘No Dirty Gold’ campaign run by Oxfam and Earthworks, which has helped to raise awareness of this issue, but concludes that “…much remains to be done in order to clean up the production and trading of gold and other precious metals.”
The report is likely to reinforce the growing demand from consumers for socially and environmentally responsible products. It should also alert the luxury brands that they can no longer afford to turn a blind eye to unethical practices. If they fail to pay attention the warning, they could face a difficult future. As Anthony Kleanthous points out, “Let’s face it, who wants to pay extra for a dirty brand?”     
The Council for Responsible Jewellery Practices has strongly criticised the report.

The World’s Ten Most Valuable Diamonds

This week Georges Marciano, the founder of Guess clothing, spent just over sixteen million dollars (£7,900,000) on a single diamond at a Sotheby's auction in Geneva. The price fell just short of a new world record.

The diamond weighed slightly over 84 carats (nearly 17g), and received the highest possible grading. It is D-colour, or finest white, has flawless clarity, and its cut, polish and symmetry have all been graded 'excellent'.

But while this stone may be the second most expensive diamond in the world, there is a select group that could raise more if they ever went on sale. So where would Georges Marciano's diamond be placed in to our top ten?

10 Fancy Vivid Blue. This 6.04 carat flawless blue diamond sold last month at Sotheby's auction house in Hong Kong, for nearly eight million dollars (£3,890,000). This worked out at more than one and a third million dollars (£644,000) per carat, a new world record. 

9 The Taylor-Burton Diamond. It was the jeweller Cartier that first bought this stone when it was auctioned in 1969. But the very next day, film star Richard Burton paid an undisclosed amount of money for the diamond, which he gave to his wife Elizabeth Taylor. In 1979 it was sold to an anonymous buyer in Saudi Arabia for nearly three million dollars (£1,463,000), though it would be worth far more at today's prices.

  8 Golden Jubilee Diamond. At 545.7 carats, this is the largest cut diamond in the world. Graded as a 'fancy yellow-brown' colour, it was presented to the King of Thailand in 1997 to commemorate the fiftieth anniversary of his coronation. Thailand was experiencing economic difficulties at the time so, to avoid accusations of extravagance, the government referred to this stone as a large 'golden topaz'.

7 The Star of the Season. In May 1995, a 100.1 carat pear-shaped diamond went on sale in Switzerland. The stone was free of internal flaws, and its colour was graded 'D', or perfect white. It was bought by Sheikh Ahmed Fitaihi for a world record sixteen and a half million dollars (£8,073,000).

6 The Koh-I-Nor At 105.6 carats, the Koh-I-Nor is set in the Maltese Cross at the front of the crown made for Queen Elisabeth the Queen Mother. Once the largest known diamond in the world, it comes from Golconda in India. Local rulers fought over it for centuries. Eventually, in 1877, it became part of the British Crown Jewels when Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli proclaimed Queen Victoria the 'Empress of India'.

5 Cullinan II (aka The Lesser Star of Africa) Weighing 317.4 carats, this is the third largest polished diamond in the world. It was cut from the Cullinan diamond, the largest rough diamond ever found, which was discovered in South Africa in 1905. It is now part of the British crown jewels, forming part of the Imperial State Crown.

4 The Centenary Diamond. In March 1988, De Beers marked its centenary celebrations by announcing the discovery of a perfectly white rough diamond of 599 carats. But it was not until three years later that the cutting and polishing process was completed. The end result was a diamond weighing over 273 carats, with a record 247 facets.

3 The Hope Diamond. French traveller Jean Baptiste Tavernier brought this steel blue stone back from India in the seventeenth century, before selling it to King Louis XIV. Following the French Revolution, it disappeared for two decades, before being purchased by English banker Henry Thomas Hope. It passed through several sets of hands until the jeweller Harry Winston bought it in 1949, and gave it to the Smithsonian Institute. At 45 carats, it is the largest dark blue diamond in the world.

2 The Millenium Star. In 2000, De Beers and the Steinmetze Group put the 'Millenium Star' on display at the Millennium Dome in London. Within months, this 203.4 carat, flawless D-colour diamond was the target of a daring attempted robbery. Police seized the villains, which is lucky since the diamond had an insured value of no less than one hundred million pounds (USD 205,000,000). This valuation may well be an under-estimate.

1 Cullinan I (aka The Great Star of Africa) Discovered in South Africa in 1905, The Great Star of Africa is the largest polished stone to be cut from the legendary Cullinan Diamond. Weighing 530.2 carats, it is now on display in the Tower of London, where it is mounted in the Crown Jewels at the head of the sceptre. It is literally impossible to put a value on it.  

Green Gold is No Myth

Recently there have been articles posted on environmental sites suggesting that, since ALL gold mining is inherently damaging to the environment, consumers should boycott gold products. But this is not accurate.
It is true that most gold mining is extremely harmful, but this is not always the case. It is the toxic effects of cyanide and mercury that cause the problems, as well as the physical impact of large-scale open cast mining. Small-scale mining, carried out without chemicals, need not be destructive.
This photo shows villagers in Jujuy province, in northern Argentina. They extract gold by 'washing' the alluvial gravel that they dig from dry riverbeds. Without the use of chemicals, it takes a lot of hard work to extract a small amount of gold. When the rainy season comes, the rivers fill up, the riverbed returns to its original state, and work comes to an abrupt halt.
In South America, a number of small-scale communities work this way. In Jujuy province, the villagers choose to sell their gold to the EcoAndina Foundation. This is a non-governmental organisation that helps safeguard village life through sustainable energy, sustainable agriculture, and environmentally friendly mining. Without the revenue generated from gold, more of Jujuy's villagers would depart for the major cities, where they risk falling into the cycle of hopeless poverty that traps so many of Argentina's migrant workers.
Refusing to buy gold from these people would do nothing to help the environment, but would do plenty of harm to some of the poorest communities in a country that has already taken an economic battering in recent years.
Don't tar all gold mining with the same brush - some of it deserves our support.

London Jeweller Profits by Trading with Junta

At a time when Burma's brutal military dictatorship is ruthlessly crushing pro-democracy protests, you wouldn't expect British businesses to be boasting about their links with this regime.

Amazingly though, a number of jewellers are doing just this.

This sapphire was photographed in London last week, in the window of one of Bond Street's most exclusive stores.

Burmese sapphires and rubies are of the very highest quality, but unfortunately the military junta profits directly from sales of these gems. They control the licensing of all mining operations, run the gem auctions, and have majority shares in every mine in the country.  

While Burma's generals have made an estimated £400 million from the gem industry, mine bosses get their workers addicted to drugs in order to exploit them in slave-like conditions.

According to eye witness accounts, methamphetamine is mixed with drinking water to increase productivity, and heroin is given to miners at the end of the working day as a 'reward'.  As a consequence of needles being shared, AIDS is spreading rapidly amongst the miners.

Debbie Stothard of the Alternative ASEAN Network on Burma was recently quoted in the Scotsman newspaper saying: "Young people go off to the mines with big hopes and dreams, and they come back to die." 

America has banned all imports from Burma, but the British government merely 'discourages' trade with the junta. So Burmese gems still find their way onto the UK market.

What can be done about this? Firstly, we advise people to demand to know where and how their jeweller has sourced their gemstones. Do not be fobbed off with vague reassurances about 'reputable dealers' and 'Kimberley Process Certificates' (in the case of diamonds). If a jeweller is serious about offering a genuinely ethical product, they should be able to tell you exactly which mine their gemstones came from, and how the workers there were treated. If you meet with evasion, go elsewhere.

As for the jeweller boasting about his 'Burmese Sapphires' - let us know what you think.

Welcome

Welcome to the Ingle & Rhode news page. We'll be posting articles on a variety of topics. Amongst other things, we'll try to keep you posted on some of the ethical problems facing the jewellery industry today, what the solutions are, and what you can do to get involved. We hope you find these pages informative and interesting.

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