Marquise cut diamonds, also known as navette cuts (French for “little boat”) are a modified brilliant cut with 58 factets. The cut was allegedly inspired by the striking smile of the Marquise de Pompadour, King Louis XV’s mistress. Compared to many shapes, a marquise will tend to have a larger crown area relative to its weight, which means that at any given weight the marquise will tend to seem larger – this can be helpful, if you want to maximise your diamond’s perceived size within a given budget.

A marquise cut is considered to have ideal proportions when the the length of the diamond is approximately twice its width, though more slender or wider proportions may suit a particular design. Whichever proportions you prefer, you should always look for very good or excellent symmetry and polish, as this ensures that light is reflected evenly, especially in the point.

As there isn’t a universally recognised ideal shape for a marquise, a GIA certificate won’t list a ‘Cut’ grade. However, it’s worth checking that a stone has a Table % between 52 and 65, and a Depth % between 56 and 66. Numbers outside these ranges are likely to signify a badly cut diamond.

In the gallery above, you can view a selection of some of the bespoke marquise cut rings that we’ve made to order for previous clients. Please feel free to get in touch if you have any questions, or to discuss commissioning your own bespoke design.