Modern oval diamonds have 58 brilliant cut facets that refract light in order to create the sparkle that diamonds are famous for. Though a well manufactured round brilliant cut will sparkle more than any other shape, a well cut oval won’t be far behind. Compared to the round brilliant, an oval will tend to have a larger crown area relative to its weight, which means that at any given weight the oval will tend to seem larger – this can be helpful, if you are aiming to maximise your diamond’s perceived size within a given budget.

The ideal proportions of an oval are generally considered to be when the length of the stone is roughly 1½ times its width. While longer slimmer cuts may flatter the hand by making fingers appear longer and more slender, ovals with a length-to-width ratio greater than 1.5 can exhibit what is known as a ‘bow-tie effect’, where a dark, bow-tie shaped pattern is visible in the middle of the diamond when viewed from above.

Whichever proportions you prefer, you should look for very good or excellent symmetry and polish. As there isn’t a universally recognised ‘best’ shape for an oval, a GIA certificate won’t include a ‘Cut’ grade. There are a couple of other useful pointers you can look out for though. We really want to see a Table % listed between 52 and 64, and a Depth % between 57 and 65. Anything outside those parameters is likely to signal a poorly proportioned stone.

As always though, the certificate only tells part of the story. If you are considering an oval cut diamond, we strongly recommend that you view it in person so that you can make your own assessment.

In the gallery below, you can view a selection of some of the bespoke oval cut rings that we’ve made to order for previous clients. Please feel free to get in touch if you have any questions, or to discuss commissioning your own bespoke design.