Victorian engagement Rings

The Victorian era was marked by discoveries of gold and diamonds in South Africa, and these finds had a direct impact on the jewellery of the time, helping to make fine jewellery accessible to the middle classes that had emerged from the Industrial Revolution.

Victorian engagement ring designs were heavily influenced by discoveries of ancient Egyptian, Greek and Roman treasures during this period, but the style of Victorian engagement rings evolved significantly over six decades from Queen Victoria’s coronation in 1837 until her death in 1901. 

Early Victorian engagement rings tended towards the large and more ornate, but later the fashion was for smaller and finer pieces, with gemstones being displayed in increasingly intricate and varied settings. This era also saw the the height of the Art Nouveau movement, inspired by the elaborate curves and free-flowing forms found in nature – a direct reaction against the age of industrialisation.

The metal of choice for engagement rings throughout the Victorian period was 18ct gold, and until 1854 only 18ct gold was hallmarked in Britain. Thereafter, 9ct, 12ct and 15ct gold was allowed to receive a quality stamp too, paving the way for cheaper jewellery.

Of the precious gemstones, opals were one of Victoria’s personal favourites, but coral, turquoise, pearls, garnet and amethyst were also favoured for use in Victorian engagement rings. However, diamonds became increasingly popular in the latter part of Victoria’s reign, after large deposits were found in the 1860s and their affordability improved. The advent of electric lighting in the 1880s probably also helped by showing off diamonds’ sparkle to best effect!